Showing posts with label Al Ponte Antico. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Al Ponte Antico. Show all posts

Friday, May 27, 2011

DAY 2: Venice (Oceania Cruise)


Ah, Venice!


After a good night’s sleep, we had a leisurely breakfast in the elegant Grand Dining Room, patterned after the classic 5-star restaurants of Europe.




Swarovski crystal chandelier in Marina’s Grand Dining Room


Grand Dining Room aboard Oceania's ship, Marina

Menus change daily, but this will give you an idea of the breakfast menu.


Page 1 of the breakfast menu in the Grand Dining Room on Marina (Oceania Cruises)



Page 2 of the breakfast menu in the Grand Dining Room on Marina (Oceania Cruises)

It felt funny (but nice) after eating a beautiful breakfast like this, to then just get up and walk out. There’s no bill to pay or even tip to leave. (There is a total tip charge, which varies by cruise line. For Oceania it’s $13.50 per person per day. For suites, which include butler service, there is an additional $5 per person per day.  Based on the attentive service we enjoyed throughout the cruise, it was money well spent!)

The weather that day was another definition of perfection. Beautiful, beautiful! Oceania provided a free shuttle from the ship to the Piazzale Roma (Venice's terminal), where we were able to pick up the vaporetto. Having been to Venice 1-1/2 years ago, there was nothing we felt we had to see, and having arrived just the day before, we preferred to have a leisurely Saturday and ride the vaporetto through the canals.


A vaporetto in Venice

A vaporetto is like the city bus, except that this being Venice, the bus is a boat. (Sidebar: if you’re planning a trip to Venice and are trying to decide between a water taxi [expensive] and a vaporetto [cheap] for your airport transfers, ask yourself if you’d like to be on this with all your luggage!)

With a day-pass, we were able to hop on and off the vaporetto and stroll for a while as desired. We both verbalized the sudden realization that Venice is one of our favorite cities in the world. We thought it probably has something physiologically to do with being on the water, but there’s also its incredible architectural beauty.


The Grand Canal in Venice

 

Gondola in the Grand Canal, Venice

 
Has anyone yet published a coffee table book called The Verandas of Venice?


Window boxes and flower-filled verandas in Venice


Pigeon in an open window in Venice

One of the highlights for us was to visit the hotel where we’d stayed on our previous trip to Venice, the Al Ponte Antico. We’d written ahead to the gracious owner, Matteo, who said that of course we’d be welcome to come back for a visit. We each ordered a Spritz ("the official cocktail of Italy," a combination of Prosecco and Aperol) and sipped them on the hotel’s veranda overlooking the Grand Canal, just as we’d done in the fall of 2009.


Our Spritz toast at the Al Ponte Antico Hotel, overlooking the Grand Canal in Venice

And just as at that earlier time, we were able to see an ambulance approach from under the Rialto Bridge and speed past, dodging other vessels and leaving its wake to wash up over the sides of the canal.


An ambulance boat speeds out from under the Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal of Venice

While we were still sitting there, a wedding party passed by!

Bride and groom in a flower-bedecked gondola in Venice

When we tried to pay the bill for our Spritzes, Matteo was no longer there, but payment was refused. (Did I say gracious?) If you ever need a hotel in Venice, I can wholeheartedly recommend the Al Ponte Antico. There’s a reason why it stays at #1 or #2 on TripAdvisor’s list of 444 hotels in Venice. So our thanks to you, Matteo!  We enjoyed seeing you and your beautiful hotel again.


Al Ponte Antico Hotel, on the Grand Canal in Venice


Breakfast room of the Al Ponte Antico Hotel in Venice

We also stepped inside the Hotel Danieli for a quick peek at its 14th century lobby. It is gorgeous. I’d thought earlier that we might want to have lunch at the Danieli, but when we see on the menu a lunch item for €85 and a bottle of champagne for €600, that’s our first clue to keep looking for another place to eat!


14th century lobby of the Hotel Danieli in Venice

We never dreamed the extent to which Oceania Cruises really goes all out, even “arranging” for the Pope to be in Venice for our visit.


Banner welcoming Pope Benedict XVI to Venice


Italian officers in a water taxi on the Grand Canal of Venice

The city was all abuzz. Cameras were set up; the appropriate dock had been carpeted in red; and we saw a boat delivering plants and flowers, presumably to dress up for the occasion. We passed a scarlet-bedecked platform set up near the entrance to St. Mark’s Square.

Of course, there was a downside to this. Even though the Pope wouldn’t be speaking until early evening, for security reasons St. Mark’s Square was closed for the day. This wasn’t a big issue for us, but we felt for those who’d never seen Venice before, as that’s one of the major sites of the city. (See cruise tip below). Our ship was even delayed for two hours in leaving the harbor because port traffic was halted for security reasons. (The captain was able to make up the time, so we arrived at our next destination on schedule.)

Before pulling away from Venice, there was a mandatory safety drill. Each cabin was assigned to a specific muster station on the ship – ours was in the Grand Dining Room – and roll call was taken. They discussed the lifejackets and emergency evacuation procedures.

When we left port – and at many other times – music filled the air. It was magic. (Well, maybe it was Jack the Knife…either way!) One passenger joked that what you never want to hear a ship’s band play is Nearer My God, to Thee – and they didn’t!  :)


Live band poolside aboard Oceania’s ship, Marina

We had dinner in one of Marina’s five specialty restaurants, Toscana. One of the nice things about Oceania as a cruise line is that they don't charge for specialty restaurants (other than for the wine-pairing dinner at La Reserve, as alcohol is not included in the price of the cruise).


Toscana Restaurant aboard Oceania’s ship, Marina

I have to admit, it’s the first time I’ve ever been to a restaurant that had a separate, two-page menu for olive oils! There were plain olive oils of different varieties, others that were infused with rosemary and such, and still others that were mixed with vinegars.

It was beautiful eating dinner there, with the Roman shades raised, and watching the sun set over the bow of the ship. We shared a dinner table with Lee and Brenda, and with Jeff and Patti. Patti used to reside in the same small town where we lived when our daughter was little. We would bump into her and Jeff a number of times in the next 10 days, and we came to enjoy some running inside jokes.


CRUISE TIP #1: When selecting a cruise that includes a destination that’s on your bucket list, you may want to choose an itinerary that either starts or ends in that location. There are several reasons for this:
(1) Sometimes, due to weather conditions, a ship is not able to make all its stops. (This may be especially true if tenders are required for a given port.) But if a cruise starts or ends at the destination that’s most important to you, barring some disaster, you can be fairly certain that you’ll see it.
(2) It allows you the opportunity to add one or more days pre- or post-cruise in that location for more in-depth sightseeing.
(3) That pre- or post-cruise stay is added insurance if the destination is of particular interest to you. I really felt for those people who’d never been to Venice and now that they were, weren’t able to see St. Mark’s Square because of the Pope’s visit. Sometimes these things happen.

CRUISE TIP #2: Some cruise lines charge $20-35 per person for specialty restaurants, not including alcohol; others, like Oceania, do not. It’s just something to be aware of when selecting and pricing your cruise.

CRUISE TIP #3: Cruise prices can result in sticker shock because we’re often used to computing land travel costs separately: “This many days in this hotel at $___ per night, and that many days in that hotel at $___ per night, and the rental car is $___, and we’ll figure so much for food,” etc. With a cruise, the food, transportation and accommodations for the entire trip are rolled into one price, and I think that price is actually a bargain (especially because all the meals are gourmet). As for alcoholic drinks, prices seem on a par with those at restaurants (an 18% service charge is added). The area where I think one is more likely to pay more can be on airport transfers and ship excursions, but there are usually easy workarounds for these, so please don’t ever let that dissuade you from the wonderful experience of cruising.

Note: I will eventually be adding many more photos from Venice to my Flickr account.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Oceania Cruise: Venice

I’ve never yet been on a cruise. That’s somewhat ironic because my late father was a yacht broker and owned a marina. As kids we slept many a summer’s weekend-night on our cabin cruiser, anchored in a cove on Old Hickory Lake. So yes, it is ironic that I’ve never been on a real cruise!

I do dream of a cruise, however -- a specific cruise.  It’s Oceania’s Grecian Glory, on the cruise line’s soon-to-be-launched new ship, Marina.


Photo at http://www.worldwidegolfandtravel.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/exterior_marina.jpeg
Marina is one beautiful lady!




Photo at http://www.cruisemates.com/images/oceania/GrandStairs_Marina.jpg
The Grand Staircase

 

Photo at http://www.cruisemates.com/images/oceania/Concierge%20Suite_Marina.jpg
Marina’s Veranda Stateroom -- I so want to drift off there!


So, with this post begins a ScheckTrek series that will mirror Oceania’s Grecian Glory itinerary. This will include Venice, Italy; Dubrovnik, Croatia; Kotor, Montenegro; Ephesus, Turkey; and seven stops in the Greek Isles, including Santorini and Mykonos, ending in Athens.


VENICE
Venice is the city of embarkation. While this series will primarily be virtual travel, it will begin with an overview of a actual 2009 trip to that enchanting city of canals. (All photos from ScheckTrek unless otherwise noted.)

This was taken from St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco). On the left is the Doge’s Palace, constructed largely in the early 1300s. To the right in the photo, but really across the Venetian Lagoon, is the island of San Giorgio Maggiore and its church, dating from 1566-1610.


The church/island of San Giorgio Maggiore




 











This was unposed.




 



















 

So Venetian!




St. Mark’s Square is magical at night. By then the day-trippers have gone and the major cafes sponsor free open-air concerts. You only pay (dearly) if you take a seat at one of their outdoor tables.







Caffe Florian is one of the hosts of these concerts. Established in 1720, it may be the oldest coffee house in continuous operation, according to Wikipedia. In their respective times, the Florian was frequented by Charles Dickens, Goethe, Lord Byron, and Casanova—the latter probably because it was the only coffee house that allowed women. (Bravo for them for allowing women!) It came to be frequented by people from all walks of life and social classes.







Actually, all of Venice is magical at night. This was taken from the Rialto Bridge.



ACCOMMODATIONS
The ScheckTrek pick for Venice, if not staying onboard the Marina, is the Al Ponte Antico. It was one of our top-five, best hotel experiences ever!


The hotel, as seen from the water. Don’t be put off by the appearance of a crumbling exterior. This is TripAdvisor’s #1 rated hotel for Venice, and it comes in #6 on their list of Top 25 Hotels in Europe, based on user reviews.

Some of our fondest memories of the trip were sitting under that red awning — enjoying breakfast in the morning and spritzes in the evening — and watching all of Venice go by on the Grand Canal below.

This is a view from the hotel terrace. It’s only a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge.



We’d never imagined all the types of boat traffic we would see. Of course there are the ever present gondolas. But the city’s “busses” (vaporettos) are also boats. The mail carrier arrives in a boat, as do the hotels’ supplies of clean linens from their laundry service. We even saw an ambulance boat, with siren blaring, zooming by and splashing water over both sides of the canal!



Our room. The Venetian style can seem a bit over-the-top when taken out of context, but it looks perfect in its setting. The woods, whether of furniture or doors, are absolute works of art in themselves. Simply stunning.




The ceilings are really, really high — it was a lot of wall space to cover in that rich fabric. The chandelier is Murano.






The final clincher for splurging on this hotel was the glowing consensus of TripAdvisor reviewers who'd raved about it.  But even before reading the appraisals, I was pretty much sold on those banquettes! 


In cool weather this would have been a great place to eat breakfast, have drinks or just lounge. However, with the good weather we had, it was too hard to pass up the terrace all those times!




Another lovely spot for breakfast


 
 
 
In addition to the beautiful, ready-to-eat breakfast assortment, the owner, Mateo, offered to make us banana crepes each morning. We accepted. He also scrambled us some eggs that came from his grandmother’s farm.





Al Ponte Antico’s charming owner, Mateo. Long may his success continue!


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