ScheckTrek

2012-01-09T20:07:00.000-08:00

I admit to a weakness for photographing cafes when we travel, and I've just ordered some Shutterfly cards featuring some of them.

Venice, Italy

Corfu, Greece

Lucca, Italy

The one below is one of my favorites. We were in Rome, and just as I snapped the shutter, someone stepped into the shot. Little did I know then that his blurry image would make the photo! (FYI, the link below will take you to Shutterfly.)

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5x7 Folded Card

View the entire collection of cards.

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Flying First Class

2011-11-21T21:09:00.000-08:00

This was not the first time I’d flown first class. In my earlier years when I was an interior designer, five other Los Angeles designers and I had been invited to tour Karastan’s rug factories in North Carolina. It’s almost hard to imagine in today's economic climate, but they flew us there first class.

And then there was the time I was racing home to Tennessee – hoping to make it soon enough to see my father one last time – and the first flight was too late to make the connection. The airline got me on the next one, but the only available seat was in first class. How lucky was that? (The other good news was that it didn’t end up being the last time I saw him.)

It was that second time flying first class that impressed me more. Maybe it’s because on the earlier occasions, we weren’t accustomed to the sardine section’s being quite so jam-packed as it came to be in later years. Maybe it’s because, traveling alone the second time – and with a certain amount of emotional duress – I was more aware of the niceties: a glass of champagne as I was seated, a rose in the first-class restroom.

Fast forward to November 2011.

It’s not that I was late-late in reserving frequent-flyer award travel for my business trip/family visit. It’s just that it was late enough that there were no more 12,500-mile-per-leg economy-class seats available for free. And free is good. I really like free. So my choices were to trade in 25,000 miles per leg for “anytime” economy-class travel, or choose from a more limited selection of times, but fly first class. Who among us would say, "Give me coach! I prefer the cozy closeness of it all. Really love the way my knees feel when they're embedded into the seat back in front of me"? No surprise here, but I went with first class.

We got to Los Angeles International Airport only to see a huge long line snaking its way up to check-in. But that wasn’t for us. We got to walk past them all to Premium/First Class check-in, where we actually had a choice of agents we could have walked up to, all with no customers. “Couldn’t they have spread out some of these agents?” I asked my husband. That part was quick, quick, quick.

I still had to wait in line for TSA screening (though a much shorter one than the pleb line was). So there I stood, feeling like an imposter. Surrounding me were the women with perfect hair colors – you know, the kind of blonde that you know had to cost a fortune. And then there was the man whose hair was also notable, mostly due to its length. It’s not that he was mean-looking – just a little scruffy, sort of like the type you wouldn’t want to run into in a dark alley. Except that he was flying first class and carrying a guitar case. (Maybe I should have asked for his autograph, just in case he’s famous?)

I acquiesced to the TSA screening, only to have to be patted down anyway because there were rhinestones on my top. Oh, well. I’m telling myself the pat-down would have been more intrusive had I not offered my body for the viewing pleasure of someone in a “remote location.”

Turns out the flight times with first class offerings had been great, so I paid little attention to the equipment. Flying Los Angeles to Houston, Texas, what else would we have but BIG?

“What do you mean, American Eagle?”

Followed by, “Why can’t I see a sign for Gate 44J?” Ah, there it is. Take the escalator down. “Why did I just buy this venti cappuccino? Please don’t have an earthquake while I’m trying to manage a carry-on, my camera bag, and a hot drink on an escalator, all without falling on the lady I just let go ahead of me.” A bus took us to a remote waiting room. Not feeling very first class in all of this.

On boarding the plane my carry-on was tagged and I was informed that I could pick it up right after the flight. I was happy I'd thrown in the heavy-duty bag from our Oceania cruise, and I transferred my laptop and a few essentials into that to carry onto the plane.

First-class on a puddle-jumper jet. You know those big cushy seats you pass through all those times when you aren’t flying first-class – those soft Italian leather ones with New Zealand sheepskin? (Okay, maybe they aren’t Italian or New Zealand products, but they could fool me.) We’ve all seen them as we’ve headed back to our seats in the cattle-car section, and we’ve all wished we could be some of the lucky few. “How rested I would be if my seat reclined and had those footrests.” Forget it, they aren’t on a puddle-jumper!

Still, first class does come with its creature comforts. You barely take your seat before a fight attendant asks if you’d like something to drink. “A glass of champagne, please.” I have to say, I was disappointed that it was a plastic glass, but still… Before take-off, however, she returned to retrieve it (barely touched).

After take-off she returned for beverage selection. “I’m not counting that first one,” I said. This time it came in a real champagne glass and accompanied by mixed nuts (with nary a peanut in the piled-high dish). “Will a meal be served on this flight?” Yes, there was a choice of attractive options, each served on a tablecloth- (cloth napkin-) covered tray. For the poor souls back in steerage, it was BYOF (Bring/Buy Your Own Food) – and no cloth napkin. All in all, I did feel fairly well spoiled. I could get used to this.

“Another glass of champagne, please.”

DAY 11 - Athens, Greece (Oceania Cruise)

2011-06-07T22:06:00.000-07:00

The cruise had come to its end, and we needed to vacate our cabin by 8:30 a.m. Oceania invited us to continue to make use of the ship’s lounges, if we wished; but as we had only one day to see Athens, we needed to move along. For the sake of time, we had room service bring us a Continental breakfast.

Disembarkation was quick. We picked up our luggage in the terminal (see Disembarking Info below), got a taxi from the waiting line
of taxis outside, and were whisked away to our Athens hotel.

While cruising (as an old TV cruise commercial used to say) “we came to believe we were descended from royalty.” So how appropriate that we moved from the ship to the 5-star Royal Olympic Hotel in Athens, where we’d booked an Athenian Panorama room.

The Royal Olympic Hotel, in Athens, is a member

of the Great Hotels of the World Luxury Collection.

The Royal Olympic Hotel, in Athens

Of course, this was early morning, so we couldn’t see the actual room until later (more on that below), but the hotel stored our luggage and we went out to see Athens instead!

The things you see, just walking along the streets of Athens!

This is an archeological site of Roman baths.

Timing was good for us to catch the changing of the guard at the Parliament Building. There, the tall Evzones (Presidential Guards) watch over the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The ceremony is done on the hour.

Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Athens

Evzones at the Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Athens

Evzones’ shoes and legwear in Athens

It’s more of a “production” on Sundays, with the accompaniment of a military band at 11:00. But the advantage of a week day is that there isn’t a huge crowd (at least, when we were there), and it’s easy to get your photo taken with the guard. Had this been on a Sunday, he would have been in a white skirt (like the Scottish, they call them kilts) and we would have matched. :)

Standing next to an on-guard Evzone in Athens

We had a lot of ground to cover, so we decided to take one of the hop-on-hop-off busses in Athens. (The hotel recommended “the red ones” – City Sightseeing.) The busses run every 30 minutes. If you stay on, the total tour takes 90 minutes; and there’s pre-recorded commentary, via headset, in nine different languages. The original quote was €18 apiece (it covers two days), but the lady on the street, who was trying to sell us the tickets, offered them for €16 each. (Even though she was wearing a branded scarf, we didn’t give her the money until she came on the bus with us. It was all legit, but you can’t be too careful!) For our purposes I wouldn’t say it was the bargain of the year, but it was nice to get the overview of the city that we wouldn’t have had otherwise, and I welcomed the opportunity to sit. The day would have plenty of walking!

Here are a few shots taken from the bus:

We thought Athens needed just a few more cars!...

…And Athens is a little short on motorcycles, too!

…But apparently this photographer didn’t think Athens traffic was so bad that he couldn’t stand in the middle of street to get his shot. (What you can’t hear are all the horns honking at him!)

Another shot from the bus in Athens. I can’t help wondering what the look is about.

We only saw this open-air Athens market from the double-decker bus.

With more time, I would have liked going back there to explore more in detail.

We got off the bus for some lunch before going to the Acropolis.

An Athens café

Café in Athens

Greek salad and drinks in Athens

The food was delicious, but we did feel double-crossed when the bill came and we had to fight it. (See tip at the bottom.)

Next, on to the Acropolis. The Acropolis is currently undergoing restoration, and likely will be for some time to come. Even though it resembles a construction site to some extent, because of what it is, it’s worth it to pay your €12 and see it if you haven’t been there before.

Many of the antiquities are now in the Acropolis Museum nearby. Unfortunately, the museum was closed on Monday, the only day we were in town. (Click here for hours and info on the museum, which looks magnificent!)

The Acropolis in Athens

The Erechtheion, c. 421-406 BC, part of the Acropolis in Athens

The Porch of the Korai, part of the Erechtheion, at the Acropolis in Athens

What a “junk yard” looks like at the Acropolis

“Love in the ruins,” the Acropolis, Athens

In front of the Parthenon in Athens

The Acropolis, seen from the Areopagus (Mars Hill), Athens

According to the information plaque on the site, “A judicial body, the Areopagus Council, met on this hill to preside over cases of murder, sacrilege, and arson. The Areopagus was also a place of religious worship.” It was here that the Apostle Paul told the Athenians that he had seen their statue to the “Unknown God,” and that’s the one he wanted to talk to them about.

Athens has some beautiful architecture (this one in Plaka)…

…and also some once-beautiful architecture.

Plaka, on the northeast slope of the Acropolis, is a fun place to stroll. One of the oldest residential areas of Athens, it’s full of cafés and shops, but is a place where people still live (and in some beautiful neo-classical buildings). Here are a few photos taken there.

Dog surveys the happenings below from a 2nd story window in Plaka, Athens

A true “sidewalk café” in Plaka, Athens

This is less “sidewalk café” and more “stair-step café” in Plaka, Athens.

Beautiful sidewalk café near the Agora in Athens

I have three favorite hotels in Athens: the Royal Olympic, where we were staying; the Hotel Grand Bretagne; and the King George Palace. More photos of the Royal Olympic will follow (it was wonderful!), but we also stopped by to see the other two.

First time I ever took a picture while walking through a revolving door!

(Hotel Grand Bretagne, Athens)

Hotel Grande Bretagne, Athens

Hotel Grand Bretagne, Athens

King George Palace Hotel, Athens

The beautiful Tudor Hall, inside King George Palace Hotel, in Athens

Dinner at Tudor Hall can set you back some serious chump change, but they offer a prix fixe luncheon menu for €29, not including drinks.

Elegant little nook at Tudor Hall, King George Palace

Back home at the Royal Olympic Hotel…

Staircase at the Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens

We booked one of the hotel’s Athenian Panorama rooms (#505), looking out over the Temple of Zeus. Wow! It was very spacious, and I would describe it as being a formal version of Greek-style décor.

Photo courtesy of Royal Olympic Hotel’s website (I’m using the hotel website photo,

as it has both the inside and outside exposures right, and my photos don’t!)

A welcomed welcome of wine and fruit waiting in our room! (Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens)

Athenian Panorama room #505 in the Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens

I’m not sure I’ve ever been in a more elegant bathroom! The tub was huge.

Bathroom in an Athenian Panorama room of the Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens

I so loved that balcony! (Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens.)

We couldn’t quite tear ourselves away from our view, so we ordered room service and ate on the balcony, watching the changing colors of the sky.

Al relaxes and takes in the view of the Temple of Zeus from our balcony

at the Royal Olympic Hotel.

Reflections from an Athenian Panaroma room at the Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens

For the photo above, I stood on the balcony and shot into the room. It shows multi-layered reflections from the window and the mirror over the arched headboard.

And speaking of reflections, here’s a view of the Acropolis (top right) and sunset,

from the Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens

A person could easily have an acceptable room in Athens for considerably less than an Athenian Panorama room at the Royal Olympic. (There are even less costly rooms at the same hotel.) But if you’re only staying for a night or two and can swing the difference, this is one of those experiences you won’t forget.

View of the Acropolis at dusk, from our balcony at the Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens

The Parthenon at dusk, seen from the Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens

Temple of Zeus at dark, as seen from our balcony at the Royal Olympic Hotel, Athens

The lobby of the Royal Olympic Hotel in the wee hours of the morning

Good-bye to Athens. Our taxi to the airport awaited.

CRUISE DISEMBARKING INFO: Our empty suitcases had been delivered to us the afternoon before. We had several hours to pack them and put them in the hall by 10:30 that night. We wouldn’t see them again until we were in the terminal, after leaving the ship. It was nice to have all that taken care of for us, though obvious thought had to be given to the task so that anything we would need overnight or the next morning, was saved out to put in our carry-on luggage. (With suites that have butler service, you can actually have the butler pack and unpack for you.)

ATHENS TIP: We were told inside the Athens terminal that a taxi to our hotel shouldn’t cost more than €15. The first driver quoted €25; the second one, €20; and we couldn’t find anyone who’d go lower than that. So whether we overpaid €5 or whether the first person was misinformed, we would have done worse if we hadn’t asked at all. And it was quite a distance, so perhaps €20 was right. Either way, it was a reminder to us that we should always ask someone local before negotiating with the seller of the service.

DON’T GET CHEATED: We had a delicious lunch in Athens. While we were considering where to eat, the owner of a café stopped us on the sidewalk and offered to give us an €8 gyro meal for €3. That was quite a deal, so we accepted. Before ordering, we notified the waiter of the offer the owner had made. When the bill came, it was for the full €8 each, plus €2 for the bread that was brought to our table before the meal. The waiter said that the €3 gyros were “a different meal,” and we hadn’t ordered bread. The owner refused to come over to the table, however, the waiter did finally reduce the meal price to €3 each. Al agreed to pay the €2 for the bread we hadn’t ordered, but it came out of what would have been the waiter’s tip.

It’s unfortunate that these things have to happen. It leaves such a bad taste in a tourist’s mouth (no pun intended).

But this is small compared to a friend of a friend, who purchased what she thought was gold and diamond jewelry in Athens, only to find out once back home, that the “diamonds” were cubic zirconia. Unless you have fully vetted a respectable dealer, do you really want to buy expensive jewelry overseas?

A third thing I’ll cover is about paying taxi drivers. One day on the cruise, before a shore excursion, the cruise director warned passengers about a practice that he’d had happen to him – and which Al and I had also had happen to us in Rome. You hand the driver the amount you owe for the taxi ride. He does a quick change (maybe while you’re putting your wallet away), and he says, “You only gave me X amount,” while he shows in his open hand the lesser amount than what you handed him. Our taxi driver actually followed us into our hotel in Rome and threatened to call the police. I said, “That’s a good idea!” and asked the hotel concierge to do just that. With that the taxi driver left. Now we always make a practice of announcing what we are handing over, e.g., “This is €30,” and waiting while he acknowledges it. We live and learn!

Disclosure: We were guests of the Royal Olympic Hotel, but without any requirement that we blog, review, or in any way recommend the hotel.

THE OMEGA

DAY 10 - Delos & Mykonos, Greece (Oceania Cruise)

2011-06-05T21:39:00.000-07:00

Windmills on the Greek isle of Mykonos

This is the only day on the cruise in which we had two stops: a morning stop (Delos) and an afternoon one (Mykonos).

Al tendered to Delos, a small island of archeological significance for its ancient pagan temples. Though I hate to miss any ports of call, with 11 destinations in 10 days, I decided to stay back, sleep in a little bit, and have room service bring me breakfast to our veranda.

How sweet it was! I had three cappuccinos (they’re small), a bowl of mixed berries (strawberries, blueberries, and plump blackberries), a chocolate-chip Danish, and eggs. I ordered one egg, but they must have brought three! (They never skimp, we’ve found.) I think I’ll remember this morning as being so delightful, one that fed me in more ways than one.

Room service on our veranda onboard Marina (Oceania cruises)

Last morning in which to enjoy the veranda. (This is also a lesson as to where you aim the camera when shooting a woman of a certain age in her bathing suit!)

Al also enjoyed his morning in Delos, and I heard a number of positive comments about the island.

Ruins on the Greek island of Delos

Some of the ruins of Delos, Greece, in the Aegean Sea

Al stands on some ruins in Delos, a Greek island in the Aegean Sea.

It only took an hour or so to cruise from Delos to Mykonos, and it seemed to take almost as long to get a tender to go ashore. Mykonos is the only place where we had significant non-weather-related delays in tendering. We hadn’t anticipated the demand or would have gone to the Marina Lounge much earlier than we did, in order to get a ticket sooner.

Some say Mykonos is like a small Santorini. To their point, it’s full of whitewashed buildings with blue trim, and it has some windmills. But few locations could match the topographical magnificence of Santorini, perched as it is, on terraced cliffs overlooking the caldera. Rather than describe Mykonos in a way that positions it as a “Santorini wannabe,” I think it’s better to appreciate it for its own charm.

Fishing boats in the harbor at Mykonos, Greece

Boats in the harbor at Mykonos, Greece

Boat at Mykonos, Greece

Fishing boats on the clear waters of Mykonos

Boats, boats, and more boats. Oceania's ship, Marina, is seen in the background.

Man decides to cool his feet in the clear waters of Mykonos

Windmills on the Greek island of Mykonos

Windmills on Mykonos

Little Venice in Mykonos

A café in Little Venice, Mykonos

Front-row seats in a cafe in Little Venice, Mykonos

A window in Mykonos

Hello, Kitty

Quintessential Mykonos

Mother and young children in Mykonos

When only the very best will do…Sleeping cat next to empty Häagen-Dazs container

Mother and child in need in Mykonos

Locked door in Mykonos

We had plenty of time to see what we wanted to see on the island – except for Petros. Mykonos has some almost human-sized pelicans named Petros I, II, III and IV. They’ve even been known to walk into shops, not see anything they want to buy, and walk out again! Since we didn't see Petros, I've included this photo from Grecotour.

Petros goes out on the town in Mykonos.

In the “Know Before You Go” department, it’s important to point out that Mykonos is also known for its wild partying, especially after dark – and maybe during the day at the clothing-optional Super Paradise Beach (not to be confused with Paradise Beach). We didn’t stay on shore past dark, though. After all, there was packing to do! It would be our last night on beautiful Marina.

Sunset near Mykonos, as seen from the cruise ship

View from the cruise ship as dusk falls over Mykonos

A final stroll around Marina’s decks

DAY 9 - Ephesus, Turkey (Oceania Cruise)

2011-06-05T01:21:00.000-07:00

Al and Vicki Scheck in front of the Library of Celsus in Ephesus, Turkey

Through Celsus Tours we were able to engage the services of a guide, Oz Osman, and driver, Sheriff, for a private tour of up to 7 hour’s duration. We were very happy with their services.

The $107 per person cost included pick up at the ship in Kusadasi (11 miles from Ephesus), admission to (1) the ancient city of Ephesus, (2) the Terrace Houses (excavated houses of the rich) and (3) the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk, with return to the ship. Of course, the itinerary was totally customizable, which is an undeniable benefit to having a private tour – being able to spend as much time as you need in one place, and leaving when you’re ready to go to the next thing.

Ephesus is a remarkable place, and this blog posting can provide only the briefest overview.

A work in progress in ancient Ephesus, Turkey

Prior to this cruise, I’d heard from more than one person that Ephesus was the favorite destination of everyone on the respective cruises they’d been on. Based on how many people were in the ancient city on May 14, I’d say word is out!

Crowds in ancient Ephesus

Oz said he’d never seen more tourists in Ephesus, even in peak season. There were not only passengers from three cruise ships, but also group after group of school children. It was still very much worthwhile.

The Library of Celsus, in Ephesus, once contained 12,000-15,000 scrolls.

Library of Celsus in Ephesus

The Terrace Houses are a “must see” in Ephesus. They’re an archeological work in progress, but already they give a sense of how the very wealthiest Ephesus citizens were domiciled – some of them in homes of 9,000 square feet.

Terrace Houses, Ephesus, Turkey

Our guide Oz (arranged through Celsus Travel) was very

knowledgeable and had a cute personality.

The tour of Ephesus provided a glimpse not only of how the ancient Ephesians lived, but even how they…

…well, you get the idea!

Ancient public toilets in Ephesus must have taken togetherness to a whole new level!

Before leaving we happened on a gladiator fight.

Staged gladiator fight in the ancient city of Ephesus

We chose to visit the Ephesus Museum, mainly to see the statue of Artemis, the goddess who has what resembles multiple rows of breasts. However, the jury is out as to whether they’re breasts, eggs, or (lovely thought) the testicles of bulls. The latter seems to be the leading contender. You can see which you think it is.

Statue of Artemis (Diana), c. 125-175

Statues of Artemis and a model of the Temple of Artemis,

in the Ephesus Museum, Selçuk, Turkey

There was a historical event in Ephesus in which the Apostle Paul was preaching that idols made by hands are not gods. Local silversmiths, who made and sold idols of Artemis (a.k.a. Diana), were afraid his preaching would hurt their business, so they whipped the people up into a frenzy. The local citizenry gathered into the Great Theatre, where for two hours they shouted, “Great is Diana [Artemis] of the Ephesians!”

The Great Theatre of Ephesus

The fears of the local artisans were unfounded.

Statues of Artemis for sale in Ephesus

However, this column is all that remains standing of the Temple of Artemis, once one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The remains lie in a marshy field.

Ruins of the Temple of Artemis, once one of the Seven Wonders of the World

By now we were ready for some lunch, and Oz took us to a café in Selçuk. It required walking through the local market (only set up on Saturdays). Though we weren’t there to shop, it was very enjoyable to pass through it, experiencing the sights and aromas of that beautiful produce!

Pomegranates at the open-air market in Selçuk, Turkey

Such beautiful colors of produce at the market in Selçuk, Turkey, near Ephesus

Women selling produce at the market in Selçuk, Turkey

Smiling for the camera, a woman at a Turkish open-air market

We also enjoyed partaking of some local produce and food at a café frequented by locals. Tomatoes and cucumbers taste so much better there! I should say we enjoyed it except for a large “bean” Al took a bite out of. HOT!!

Shown below is the owner of the café where we ate. With a mischievous smile, he said he attributed his muscles to, “I eat just meatballs.”

Muscle man – apparently the effect of meatballs!

It wasn’t until we were on the way back to the ship in Kusadasi that payment was requested for the tour (credit cards are accepted). I kidded with Oz, asking him, “What do you do if someone doesn’t pay at this point? Drop them out here in the middle of nowhere?” He had a great sense of humor. He quipped (referencing the hot, green thing Al had tasted at the café), “Then we make them eat a whole bean!” :) Oh no, not that!!

Beautiful water in Kusadasi’s harbor

Kusadasi, Turkey

We passed some open-air shops on our way back to the ship in Kusadasi, Turkey.

We might have spent a little more time walking down by the water (it was beautiful), but the hawkers are quite assertive, and it had been a busy day, so we felt we would do better with a some quiet time in our cabin or its veranda.

The most fabulous meal of our whole cruise was that Saturday night, in La Reserve by Wine Spectator. La Reserve presents a 7-course wine-pairing meal, and as such, it’s the only restaurant on the ship for which there is a charge (though there is a private room, Privee, that can be rented for dinners).

Only 24 fortunate people per night are able to eat at La Reserve, so even at a $75 per person cost (well worth it!), the slots fill up quickly. When we called for reservations, we discovered that we got two of the last four openings for the whole cruise.

They started us off with a glass of sparkling wine in a private, patio-like lounge. For each course of the dinner, the chef and sommelier visited each table, explaining both the food and its wine pairing. The whole experience was simply amazing! Following is the evening's menu:

Amuse Bouche: (I’m not a seafood eater, but…) Bay Scallops Seared on Hot Rock (literally, the hot black rock was on the plate and was used to cook the scallop), Black Lava Salt and Rock Chive Cress. Wine pairing: Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Mashio dei Cavalieri, Veneto, Italy. (Even though I didn’t eat the seafood, I did down the Prosecco!)

Appetizer: Stuffed Brioche with Duck Foie Gras and Truffle Jelly (yummy). Wine pairing: Château la Varière, Coteaux de l’Aubance, Loire River, France.

Pasta: Risotto Primavera with Scamorza di Bufala. Wine pairing: Kolbenhof Gewurztraminer, Hofstatter, Alto Adige, Italy.

Fish: Grilled Turban of Wild Salmon and Turbot with Seaweed Vegetable Casserole. (The chef was kind enough to make some for us without the turbot.) Wine pairing: Nautica Murrieta’s Well Chardonnay, California, USA.

Main Course: Chateaubriand with Bordelaise Sauce and Roasted Baby Potatoes. Wine pairing: Château Bouscaut Grand Cru, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France.

Our waiter serving Château Bouscaut Grand Cru, Pessac-Léognan

Cheese : Napoleon of Poached Williams Pear and Melted Gorgonzola. (This was one of the cutest and most luscious things I’ve ever put in my mouth!) Wine pairing: Fonesca Porto, Late Bottled Vintage, Oporto, Portugal.

Dinner at La Reserve aboard Oceania’s Marina: Ann, Vicki, Ann, Bob, Jay, Jeanie, Al and Peggy. By this time we were becoming full, and our hearts were merry!

Dessert: “Gold Bullion” of Valrhona Jivara Chocolate Mousse. Wine pairing: Alfredo Prunotto Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy. We also had cappuccino.

All in all, a splendid day and evening!

EPHESUS TIP: Ephesus can be quite warm – even hot – and there’s almost no shade unless one can find a skinny sliver of it next to a column. We were there in May, and I would prefer not to have warmer temps than that. There are no services in the ancient city, whether water or toilets, so remember to take care of needs before entering, including purchasing plenty of bottled water. You’ll also want sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat, and maybe an umbrella/parasol.

DAY 8 - Santorini, Greece (Oceania Cruise)

2011-06-03T10:06:00.000-07:00

For a cruise of the Greek Isles, Santorini is a “must see.” It’s quintessential Greece: whitewashed buildings with blue trim, windmills, and to-die-for views of the caldera!

The volcanic explosion that produced the caldera around which Santorini is built, was believed to have spewed 35 times as much rock and ash as did Mount St. Helens. The resulting hole (now filled with water) is 7.5 x 4.3 miles in diameter and almost 1,300 feet deep.

We tendered ashore at the Port of Skala, but that’s at sea level, of course. And once ashore, you need to get “up there.” There are only three ways to do this: cable car, donkey/mule, or walk up the approximate 850-foot ascent. Our cruise director said he’d done the walk once, but that he wasn’t likely to do it again. It’s a very rough, 45-minutes up, on the same path used by the donkeys. (Having said that, it’s not that they don’t ever clean the path.)

We took the donkeys, and I loved it!! It was the highlight of my day and one of the memorable highlights of the trip.

Donkeys await riders in Santorini, Greece

Captain of the donkeys in Santorini, Greece

Donkey rides up to Fira in Santorini, Greece. Oceania ship, Marina, is in the distance.

What I’d read beforehand made it sound a lot more precarious than what it seemed to us in person. The path is quite a bit wider than I’d imagined, and there is a wall (albeit, a low wall) on the sea/drop-off side. The views were amazing, and they just kept getting better and better the higher we went. (It wasn’t recommended to take the donkeys back down the hill, as they rush past each other to get to their food at the bottom, and it can be a little precarious. So we took the cable car down, which also provides a great view and is quicker, though there can sometimes be a line.)

Fira, Santorini, Greece

Arriving at the top in Fira (also called Thira), we made our way to the bus station, asking locals for directions. Fira is pretty, but we first wanted to make sure we had plenty of time in Oia (pronounced EE-ah), which is considered the place you really want to see. The bus was very modern and clean – and full of tourists (we don’t know what the locals ride!) – so for only €1.60 each (which is paid after the bus is en route), we were set for the comfortable, 30-minute ride to Oia. It went like clockwork. The return, however, was something else again! (See caution below.)

I’ve never heard of anyone who didn’t love Santorini. Is it even possible for a sky to be any bluer? It was nice, on such a beautiful day, just to stroll around Oia, checking out the windmills and famous blue-domed churches (symbols of Santorini).

A church in Oia, Santorini

Windmill cafe in the Oia section of Santorini, Greece

Windmill in Oia, Santorini

Glimpse through open doors in Oia, Santorini

Terraced cliffs of Oia lead down to Santorini's caldera

Sea horse sculpture at an art gallery in Oia, Santorini

Before heading back, we sat on a restaurant terrace, seemingly on top of the world, and enjoyed a light lunch and libations, trying to etch the view into our memories forever.

Al and Vicki enjoy a restaurant in Oia, Santorini, Greece

Back onboard Marina, I called my 82-year old mother from the ship and was reminded of a TV commercial. My version of it is: Oceania “Grecian Glory” cruise (including air): $3,700 & up, depending on cabin. Ship-to-U.S. phone call: $4.95/minute. Hearing my mommy say, “And tomorrow you’ll be in Ephesus?” (she was keeping up with our itinerary): Priceless!

The scenery of the Santorina caldera from our cabin on Oceania's ship, Marina

We went to Martini’s (the ship's elegant bar/lounge) for happy hour. Two drinks for the price of one, plus free munchies.

The upholstery in Martini's is studded with bling (on Oceania's ship, Marina).

The effects of the lighting on my glass of champagne in Martini's, aboard Oceania ship, Marina

Friday night we had dinner at Jacques, the French specialty restaurant.

Chairs used in Jacques, the French restaurant aboard Oceania's ship, Marina

Bread basket in Jacques, aboard Oceania ship, Marina

Having fun at Jacques, aboard Oceania ship, Marina

Chef hard at work at Jacques, aboard Oceania ship, Marina

Everything was wonderful, but it was too hard to decide on dessert. (Any wonder, with French desserts?)

Dessert menu at Jacques, the French restaurant aboard Oceania ship, Marina

The winner was Baba au Rhum: a fruit-topped, little round cake onto which the waiter empties a small pitcher of old French rum – yum!!

TIP re THE SANTORINI DONKEYS: The donkeys generally don't like getting too close to the low wall bordering the drop-off, and therein lies the complaint some have had: they will sometimes rub your leg against the mountain side. Knowing this, I wore jeans, and it wasn’t a problem. When they brushed me against the cliff, I gently pressed into the animal’s side with the stirrup, and he moved out. Al pushed on his donkey’s neck, which worked as well. He also said he talked to his donkey and told it to “move over.” :)

CAUTION re TRANSPORTATION IN OIA: I can’t speak for all times of the year, but on this busy day in May, busses were only scheduled to run every hour between Oia and Fira. We reached the bus terminal about 25 minutes early for the 3:30 bus, so stood in the taxi/bus line, thinking maybe we’d spring for a taxi back to Fira. Just as everyone said, there are no taxis stationed in Oia; you have to catch one that's dropping off a new arrival. In the 25 minutes before the bus came, only two such taxis arrived, and we were not first in line for them.

Once the bus arrived, gone was the line and it was every man for himself. I got on and was surprised to see it was already standing room only, and I couldn’t see Al anywhere behind me. What neither of us realized is that people had been pouring in through the back door as well. I said to another passenger, “I don’t see my husband.” She said, “What’s his name and we’ll start calling it out.” So we both started calling “Al…Al…Al.” Those on the outside heard it, and he’s convinced that’s the only thing that allowed him to go ahead of them to get on the bus. Had he had to wait for the 4:30 bus, and then take the cable cars down and catch the tender, there’s a chance he wouldn’t have made it back to the ship before sailing. That’s a little scary!

If we had it to do over again, we’d try to get to Oia as early as possible, and return no later than the 2:30 bus, when (with a little luck) it may not be quite as crowded as later. Better yet, we might want to pay a taxi to take us to Oia, stay with us, and return us. Some say that costs less than having them return for you (which must be prearranged…and hopefully they remember), as there is a pick-up charge for anything outside Fira. The other option is to go with a tour bus. Every option is better than missing the ship.

CRUISE INFO: I was originally a little confused about which port we’d go into, but Oceania’s personnel explained it well to all of us before arrival. We first stopped at the Athinios Port. (We were told there was nothing there except for the busses that would take passengers who’d signed up for the cruise line’s shore excursions.) The ship then moved to the Port of Skala for the rest of us to disembark, as desired. Santorini is the one place we visited where ships are required to employ local tender boats to shuttle us to shore, rather than the ship’s lifeboats, which we used at other times.

DAY 7 – Monemvasia, Greece (Oceania Cruise)

2011-06-02T14:42:00.000-07:00

People have asked us, “What was your favorite of all the places you saw on cruise?”

It was Monemvasia!

(Well, okay, that's not counting Venice, which we’d seen before, but Venice is in its own special category.)

I loved Monemvasia! And yet, chances are very slim that we would have ever known about it, had we been doing land travel. The only reason I knew it existed before now was because of the research I did prior to the cruise. That convinced me that this would be a gem!

Monemvasia is an enchanting, car-free isle. We felt transported to a different time and place in history. As I walked by other cruise passengers in the town, I overheard more than one of them say, “I feel sorry for anyone who stayed back on the ship today!”

Arriving at Monemvasia (it means “single entrance”) we saw a modern town on the shore (behind us in the picture below), and a causeway leading from it to a gigantic upcropping – almost 1000 feet high. It’s easy to see why it’s called the “Gibraltar of the East” and also, simply, “the Rock.”

Causeway to “The Rock,” Monemvasia, Greece

You can barely make out the ruins of the citadel atop the rock in the photo above. The real treasure (my opinion) is hidden from view on the other side, but first there’s a little walk to reach it, which is interesting in its own right.

Just over the causeway we passed the Lazareto Hotel along the way

to the walled town of Monemvasia, Greece.

A horse grazes on a plateau outside the city walls of Monemvasia, Greece

Another view along the walk toward the city walls of Monemvasia, Greece

The city walls of Monemvasia, Greece. Monemvasia means “single entrance,”

and this is it! No motorized vehicles are allowed beyond this point.

Al checks out the top of the mountain he’s about to ascend in Monemvasia, Greece.

How does this tree stay alive? It was nearly completely hollow. (Monemvasia, Greece)

Al almost immediately took the high road and climbed up to the citadel, while I continued along the main walking street (all the streets are walking streets) to where it ends at the Malvasia Hotel, 325 yards inside the gate of the city (or “castle,” as the city is referred to locally). Having featured this hotel in my pre-cruise blog of Monemvasia, I knew I wanted to sit on that terrace and sip a glass of Malvasia wine. Yes, it was déjà vu all over again (reference to the Kotor, Montenegro post), with Al climbing to the top of the mountain and me sitting below, drinking wine!

We both had the excitement of a couple of claps of thunder and light rain, but by the time I reached the hotel, the sun was shining. I felt bad about Al sweating away, climbing the hill, while I was sitting there enjoying some Malvasia wine and that absolutely unforgettable view, along with some fellow cruise passengers who were choosing to do the very same thing.

Vicki Scheck at the Malvasia Hotel, in Monemvasia, Greece.

(Weird effect, but I wanted to straighten the horizon without cropping the picture!)

Fellow Oceania Marina cruisers enjoy a snack at the Malvasia Hotel, Monemvasia, Greece

Terrace café of the Malvasia Hotel, Monemvasia, Greece

Well, I guess Al’s view was good too!

View of Oceania’s ship, Marina, from the citadel ruins atop Monemvasia, Greece

On the islands of Corfu and Zakynthos we learned that in earlier times, residents avoided areas close to the shore due to the fear of pirates. On Monemvasia, while the rock provided protection from land invasions, it took up almost the whole of the island, necessitating that most settlements would have to be near the water. So, for protection from pirates, the town was laid out in the most enigmatic web of narrow walkways, with occasional offshoots from which defenders of the city could lie in wait for any pirates who dared try to find their way around that island.

I turned my attention toward exploring twisty-turny cobblestone alleys that went this way and that – really, the pirates didn’t stand a chance!

There is such an architectural beauty about the place, with buildings of local stone, and roofs of ancient tile. Where exterior walls were painted, I can only assume the colors must have been pre-approved by a board with exquisitely good taste, because they all blend together so harmoniously.

The main shopping street in Monemvasia, Greece

One of my favorite pictures from the trip. I’m not even sure if this little girl

spoke English, but what a great pose for the camera!

Buildings climb the heights in Monemvasia, Greece

Window with lace curtains in Monemvasia, Greece

Windstar cruise ship off-shore in Monemvasia, Greece

Monemvasia, Greece

Great tile rooftops in Monemvasia, Greece.

(Got the tip of my umbrella, sheltering the lens from sprinkles.)

Monemvasia, Greece

Shopping street in Monemvasia, Greece

Shop in Monemvasia, Greece

Outdoor café at Lazareto Hotel, on the island of Monemvasia, Greece

Lazareto Hotel in (Monemvasia, Greece)

It was time to go back “home” to the ship.

Lifeboat tender at the dock in Monemvasia. Oceania's Marina is seen in the background.

CRUISE TIP re PORT INFORMATION: Oceania provided education about all the ports of call. Early in the cruise they had two or three optional meetings where they discussed several destinations at each. In addition, they put out a daily newsletter (placed on our bed each afternoon) in which, among other things, the next day’s destination was written up. There was also a closed-circuit TV channel on which the cruise director every morning gave detailed information about the day’s stop. So there was no shortage of information, though it was easy to get busy and not avail ourselves of all of it (of which many of us were probably guilty at one time or another).

SHIP INFO: We were amazed that we never heard our neighbors on the ship – not the neighbors on either side, above or below us. Well, to be perfectly honest, there was one fluke time when we heard a toilet flush, but that was it for 10 days. When in one’s own en suite, however, the flushing sound can be quite loud as it combines a lot of air, along with the water (much like an airplane toilet). Because of all the suction created, Al joked, “If I got my foot stuck in the toilet, you would never see me again!” :)

We made it back to the ship in time to have high tea, a daily event from 4:00-5:00 in Marina’s Horizon Lounge at the bow of the ship. It was lovely.

DAY 6 – Zakynthos, Greece (Oceania Cruise)

2011-06-01T07:54:00.000-07:00

Vicki and Al on top of the world in Zakynthos, Greece

What a great day in Zakynthos!!

Actually, we were a little concerned at first in that the seas were quite choppy, and the tenders were having difficulty in coming alongside the ship. Obviously, safety is the crew’s first concern, so shore excursions had to be delayed by about an hour until they felt confident that shuttles could proceed to the shore without incident.

One of Marina’s lifeboats, used to shuttle passengers to shore

Inside the lifeboat tender on the way to Zakynthos

Waiting patiently on shore was Jackie Boots Gklavas (also spelled Glavas) and the bus for the independent tour we and others had booked through Nefis Travel. We cannot say enough good things about Jackie and Nefis Travel! Due to rough seas, we were not able to take a boat to (and into) the Blue Caves as planned. That was unfortunate but couldn’t be helped. However, Jackie made it up to us, first of all by cutting the price of the tour. She then quickly reworked the itinerary and still gave us a full day of sightseeing, including a little museum out in the middle of nowhere (well, in Pigadakia, to be more specific). My favorite part of the museum was their bathroom!

The bathroom door was a rug at the Vertzagio Folk Museum, Pigadakia, Zakynthos, Greece

All the conveniences of home in the bathroom at the Vertzagio Folk Museum, Pigadakia, Zakynthos, Greece

Vertzagio Folk Museum, Pigadakia, Zakynthos, Greece

A local market in Anafonitria with handmade offerings, which had tastings of various

local goodies and wine prepared for our arrival (Zakynthos, Greece)

A stop at the platform overlooking Navagio Beach (a.k.a. Shipwreck Beach)

for THE photo op of Zakynthos

At a tiny monastery on Zakynthos, Greece

We enjoyed a light lunch (Jackie covered the cost of the food), at a taverna in Giri where you could almost think you were the first Americans ever to set foot there.

Window at the Tabepna tavern in Giri, Zakynthos, Greece

Jackie surprised us all by picking up a guitar and playing / singing Greek folk songs while we ate. Great voice for folk music! After a song or two, the owner took the guitar (and later, harmonica) and sang to us, while Jackie harmonized. What a treat!

Jackie Boots Gklavas, of Nefis Travel, in Zakynthos, Greece

Click here for a YouTube posting of Jackie's folk singing. It's worth a listen. Click here for a second one, produced by Nefis Travel (with a little Bob Dylan action). Either or both can provide you with some Greek music while you finish reading the blog -- and maybe, if you're like me, even after!

Oops! Busses come head-to-head (well, almost) in Zakynthos.

We later made another photo stop with a panoramic view.

Café in Zakynthos, Greece, with Marina anchored off-shore

This was an incredible day, driving past vineyards, olive groves and farms, and marveling at all the different blues in the sea. Having a tour size of 18 people was perfect (though that could vary day by day, depending on how many booked the tour). We never felt rushed or “herded.” As people started feeling they were ready to move on from one place, they started gathering by the door of the bus, others saw it and joined them, and soon we were all there and moving down the road. The whole thing was delightful.

Jackie taught us a lot, too. Zakynthos is an island in the Ionian Sea, and it is the Ionian Sea that boasts the deepest part of the Mediterranean: 17,280 feet, or 3 miles! The oldest tree on the island is 1,500 years old.

On Zakynthos, it wasn’t unusual to see unfinished houses that were two- to three-stories high, but only the first floor was finished and inhabited. The upper floors were just the concrete shell. Jackie explained that people build their homes with the expectation that their children will eventually, when older, finish the upper floor(s) and live there. But another reason for leaving them unfinished, if we understood correctly, is that no taxes are paid as long as the houses aren’t finished.

Back at the ship, I was able to go to a photography class, one of several that was held during the cruise.

Onboard photographer David Smith taught us some special effects.

Clearly I need to work on my technique!

The cruise also offered cooking and art classes. So many options, so little time!

That night we had reservations at another specialty restaurant: Red Ginger. All the restaurants were excellent, but Red Ginger seemed to be a favorite of many passengers.

When making reservations for the specialty restaurants, you can specify whether you want a table for two or to share with others. We opted to share and were seated with Lana and Ed, a fun couple from Canada.

Lana and Ed

At Red Ginger, aboard Marina (Oceania Cruises)

What was this? After the appetizers, we found out.

At Red Ginger, aboard Marina (Oceania Cruises)

It was a hot cloth to wipe our hands after eating the appetizers.

We had such an enjoyable evening at Red Ginger, and my Tom Kha Gai soup (lemongrass, coconut milk and chicken) was amazing!

TRAVEL TIP re NOT GETTING RIPPED OFF: While in Zakynthos, Jackie had warned us ahead of time that the ice cream cones at our final stop should only cost €1.5. Sure enough, the vendor tried to charge us €2.5. When I balked, he pulled out a price list (hidden before we arrived) that actually said €1.5, adding, “But that’s for one scoop, you got two scoops.” I handed the cone back to him, saying, “But I didn’t ask for two scoops,” at which point he responded, “Take it. Our gift.” (Right.) I let Jackie know, and she went over to talk to them about it.

Lessons learned: look for posted prices whenever possible. Better yet, if you have a tour guide, ask her what something should cost before you purchase.

CRUISE INFO re INDEPENDENT SHORE EXCURSIONS: When there was some question about whether we’d even be able to go ashore due to high seas, we were really glad we hadn’t been required to pay any money in advance for our shore excursion. But after a private conversation I initiated with Jackie, I came to see there are two sides to this (as there are with most things!). There were some passengers who’d reserved the tour but didn’t show up. Since they hadn’t canceled with her, we all ended up waiting for the next shuttle, so as not to leave without them. In addition to all of us waiting unnecessarily, Jackie had rented a larger bus than needed because of the additional reservation(s). Some local tour operators are now thinking they might have to ask for a deposit with reservations. Obviously that would be a chunk of money to lose if tenders can’t get ashore through no fault of the passenger. A solution is to book the cruise line’s tours, but those tend to be costlier to begin with. It’s an interesting conundrum.

CRUISE TIP re SEASICKNESS: Due to seas that were a little rough for tendering ashore, Oceania’s reception desk gave out packets of seasickness pills to any who wanted them. We picked up some for the journey, not quite knowing what to expect from the waves. Of course, there is always the question: should I take a pill now, proactively, or should I wait and see? We noticed that the medication could cause drowsiness, which would not have been a happy side effect for our shore excursion, so we opted to wait, which turned out to be the right decision in our case. It was no problem at all; in fact, we weren’t aware of anyone who experienced seasickness on the entire cruise.

DAY 5: Corfu, Greece (Oceania Cruise)

2011-05-31T17:04:00.000-07:00

We wanted to try different types of shore excursions, including ones offered by the cruise line, independently arranged bus tours, independently arranged private car tours, and independently independent – just doing our own thing!

For Corfu, we chose one of Oceania’s tours, which we would not have been able to duplicate on our own. At $199 per person, it was definitely one of the most expensive ones, but it included a tour of Achillion Palace as well as – and this was the really special part – a home-cooked Greek feast at a private villa with commanding, panoramic views. We were not sorry for our selection.

First, the bus took us to Achillion Palace.

Statues at Achillion Palace, Corfu, Greece

The tour guide gave us the background of the palace, once the summer retreat of Elizabeth (nicknamed Sissy), Empress of Austria (1837-1898). According to the guide, Sissy was considered a bit wild in her day. For example, she was the first woman in her circle to wear trousers while horse-back riding. Because of her unconventional ways, the Archduchess Sophie wanted her son, Franz Joseph I, to marry Sissy’s older sister, Helene, who was considered more compliant. (The fact that Sissy and her sister were first cousins to Franz Joseph I, was not a concern.) When arriving to town for the ball, when the engagement would be announced, Sissy was locked in her room until the time of the ball, so she wouldn’t cause any trouble. However, she escaped the room and went fishing. There she ran into Franz Joseph I.

It had been many years since they’d seen each other as children, and though she knew who he was, he didn’t recognize her. He was smitten. It wasn’t until the ball that he realized that it was his beautiful cousin Sissy for whom he’d fallen, and he would dance with no one but her. Much to his mother’s chagrin, he informed her that he would be marrying Sissy, not Helene. In an unrelated event decades later (eight years after building Achillion Palace), Sissy was assassinated by an unstable individual seeking notoriety. The palace was later bought by Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany.

Achillion Palace, Corfu, Greece

Staircase at Achillion Palace, Corfu, Greece

Sissy at Achillion Palace, Corfu, Greece

No, this is not the ghost of Sissy, but a statue of her on the front porch. She has been likened to Princess Diana: beautiful, well-loved, and somewhat unconventional.

An interesting tidbit of information is that the palace was the birthplace of Britain’s Prince Phillip on June 10, 1921, exactly 90 years ago (lacking 10 days) as I write this. And for James Bond fans, the movie “For Your Eyes Only” is said to have been filmed at the palace.

After a tour of the palace, we boarded the bus for Villa Rosa. What a treat that was! We were greeted with Greek musicians and dancers in local costumes, as well as small glasses of strawberry-infused liqueur or ouzo, an anise-flavored aperitif.

Musicians and ladies in Greek costumes at Villa Rosa, Corfu, Greece

Dancers in Greek costume at Villa Rosa, Corfu, Greece

Villa Rosa is a private villa perched high in the hills, with beautiful gardens and pool, and gorgeous views of the surrounding sea.

Villa Rosa, Corfu, Greece

Roses at Villa Rosa, Corfu, Greece

But the best part of all was the home cooking of the hospitable lady of the house, which far surpassed any expectations we could have had. We’d been told we could take a dip in the pool if we wished, but we were all too busy eating and drinking! I doubt any of us had ever had better Greek cooking, and it was definitely an experience to remember.

Plate of delicious Greek food at Villa Rosa, Corfu, Greece

One of the things we couldn’t help noticing, while riding on the bus, was how many unfinished residences there were – both single- and multi-family constructions – where they appeared almost to be abandoned, with no work going on to complete them. Some of them promised to be quite nice if and when finished.

Our guide explained that people work on the houses while the money lasts, then when it runs out, they wait till they’ve got more money to continue. We would have thought, with the multi-unit constructions, that they would finish a few of them so they’d have money to finish more, but obviously we have only the most superficial information regarding Greek construction/finance laws. (For a slightly different situation and explanation, see the Zakynthos blog tomorrow.)

The bus returned us to Corfu Town (also known as

Kérkyra), where we had some free time for shopping or exploring. I strolled the town, while Al toured the fort.

Al’s view from the top, Corfu Town as seen from the fort

Canon at the Old Fort in Corfu, Greece

Following are some photos from my stroll around Corfu Town:

A seaside park in Corfu Town, Greece

Horse-drawn carriage rides are available in Corfu Town, Greece

The Listón in Corfu Town, Greece

The Listón was built by the French as a replica of the Parisian Rue de Rivoli. In earlier times, only aristocrats with certain credentials could stroll beneath its arches.

Pigeon rests atop a statue in Corfu Town, Greece

There are a lot of outdoor cafés in Corfu Town. This was one of my favorites.

And there’s plenty of shopping!

Handmade items hang in an open-air shop in Corfu Town, Greece

Corfu, Greece is known for their kumquats and kumquat liqueur

Busy shopping street in Corfu Town, Greece

Our favorite part of the day was the villa, but the drive to it, and to the palace, required routes that were less than lovely. In places it reminded me of some of the Caribbean towns we’ve seen. In other places it just seemed to be in need of better zoning laws so you wouldn’t see a tire shop next to a residence next to a business that sells wrought iron gates next to…

As for Corfu Town itself, I imagine it must look similar to the way Cuba does now – nice at one time, but seriously in need of upkeep and paint.

Corfu, Greece

One of the interesting aspects of a cruise is coming back afterward and comparing notes with other passengers. What did they see and how did they like it? For example, the next day we went to Zakynthos, where we saw some seriously gorgeous views; and a young couple with whom we lunched, said it reminded them of Corfu. ??? It turns out they’d taken Oceania’s 4 x 4, off-road shore excursion, and were led into some beautiful areas of the island that we didn’t see. So next time in Corfu, maybe we’ll tackle some off-road adventure!

CRUISE INFO re GETTING TO SHORE: If you’ve ever wondered how shore excursions are handled, there are several ways:

• The absolute best (but not often possible) is when the ship can dock right near the center of town, as ours did in Kotor.

• More often, the dock is further away, not within walking distance of town. I don’t know if every cruise line does this, but whenever this was the case on our cruise, Oceania always had full-size buses ready to shuttle us to and from the town for the entire duration of our stay. Maybe we were just lucky in our timing, but we never had to wait more than five minutes (if even that long) before catching the bus and departing.

• Still other times, tenders must be used to transport passengers between the ship and shore. On our cruise, this was done with lifeboats, except in Santorini, where they require that local boats be used. Either way, you feel very safe. There are four attendants – two on each side – who take your arms and keep you steady as you board the tender. (We even saw an older gentleman with a cane, getting onto the tender, which was an encouraging thing to see. He wasn’t going to just sit at home – or even on the ship – when there was a world to explore out there, so hats off to him!)

A complaint I’ve heard about cruise ships is that they give precedence to the people who’ve purchased their shore excursions, letting them board the tenders first. When you think of it, this makes sense. These are known tours that are taking place within a given window of time, whereas some of the others of us may just be going over to stroll around the town. It would hardly seem right to make an entire busload of people wait for tour takers who weren’t able to make an earlier tender.

Oceania has a very organized system. Tender tickets are given out in the Marina Lounge (theatre). A different type of ticket is given for each of Oceania’s tours so each tour group can be kept together on their respective tenders. For everyone else, colored tickets were given in the order in which they arrived at the lounge. Tickets are called by color for tender boarding.

There were interesting Venetian masks to look at on the walls of the Marina Lounge.

Amazing Venetian mask as wall decoration in the Marina Lounge, Oceania Cruises

Venetian mask as wall decoration in the Marina Lounge, Oceania Cruises

CRUISE TIP: I can’t speak for other cruise lines, but for Oceania, it’s good to show up at the theatre as soon as possible to get a colored ticket. Get the ticket first, and then make your final restroom stop or whatever, if needed.

CRUISE INFO re MAILING POSTCARDS: I’d wondered how to handle postcards when we’re sometimes spending only one day in a country. Would we have to buy the postcards, find some stamps, write the cards and mail them – all during the shore excursion in that country? (And if we didn’t finish in time, the stamps would be of no use to us the next day?) I was happy to find out that Oceania provides a mailing service, in conjunction with the local postal authorities. You write your postcard (can even use ones of Marina, located in the desk drawer in your cabin), hand it in onboard, and for $1.50 each, they mail it for you.

DAY 4: Kotor, Montenegro (Oceania Cruise)

2011-05-30T19:35:00.000-07:00

Kotor, Montenegro – when we say gorgeous…!

That’s really the color of the water.

Kotor is a place you don’t want to miss if you ever have the opportunity to see it. It has incredible natural beauty, combined with an Old World architecture and friendly residents. Kotor and the bay seemed to us to be a largely undiscovered jewel, well worth seeking out.

The town is located at the farthest reach of Kotor Bay, sometimes referred to as Europe's southernmost fjord (though it isn’t technically one). Fortunately or unfortunately, we temporarily forgot about that when we went to bed the night before, so we didn’t get up as soon as we would have, meaning that we got some extra sleep but missed much of the cruise through the “fjord.” At least we got to see it on the way out at the end of the day.

Along the “fjord,” mountains and cliffs come almost to the water’s edge, leaving just enough space for a road and some houses, or maybe a small village here and there. However, the scenery was no less spectacular in Kotor itself than on the ride to reach it. Kotor marries these incredible geographical features with a charming medieval, walled city.

We were able to see it with a bit of sun first thing in the morning, but it quickly turned cloudy, with intermittent light rain, which nevertheless failed to dampen our spirits in this gorgeous setting.

View of Kotor, Montenegro from Oceania’s ship, Marina.

The domed building is the Church of St. Nicholas.

Pulling back on the previous shot, this puts the town into context. Perhaps you can make out a zigzag wall ascending the mountain. Climbing that wall is a popular tourist activity.

The keeper of the gate in Kotor, Montenegro

First we set out for the nearby village of Perast, catching the local Blue Line bus for the 25-minute trip there (€1 each). This gave us the opportunity to ride with the locals and interact with them a bit. They were very helpful with any questions we had.

Though a place of considerable beauty, Perast doesn't receive as many tourists as Kotor. There we had the feeling that we were really witnessing what life is like in Montenegro. It doesn’t take long to see the village, especially if not taking boats out to its two small islands. I would have preferred a little more time for Perast itself, but we limited ourselves to less than an hour so we could catch the next bus for the return to Kotor, which has much more area to cover.

A café or tavern in Perast, Montenegro

Boats on the shore of Perast, Montenegro

This photo, taken from Portomontenegro.com, shows what the islands off Perast –

Sveti Juraj and Gospa od Skrpjela ("Our Lady of the Rocks") – can look like on a pretty day.

Back in Kotor, one of us set out to ascend the 1350 steps up the city walls to St. John’s Fortress, which sits at a 1200-foot elevation. It affords a panoramic view of the Bay of Kotor.

Walls and St. John's Fortress above Kotor, Montenegro

Oceania’s ship, Marina, in the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro,

and the uneven steps that lead to St. John’s Fortress

Al Scheck on the walls above Kotor, Montenegro, with Oceania’s ship,

Marina, in the background

Marina looks huge next to the town, but it’s only a mid-size ship, carrying up to 1250 passengers. What if it were a large cruise ship? (E.g., Royal Caribbean’s Freedom of the Seas accommodates three times as many passengers.)

Rather than climb the walls, the other one of us preferred to sit in an outdoor café, sip some local wine, and people-watch.

Vranac wine at an outdoor café in Kotor, Montenegro

People-watching at a café in Kotor, Montenegro

Once the wine was gone, there were plenty of alleys to explore. It’s interesting to see how colors are used in different municipalities. For example, Santorini is known for its whitewashed buildings with blue trim. In Kotor, especially in the back alleys, there is a lot of this dark green color with the stone. At times there’s also almost a patchwork look to the walkways (just barely visible in the photo below).

Open door leads to private courtyard in Kotor, Montenegro

Outdoor café in Kotor, Montenegro

An old-style water pump in Kotor, Montenegro

Very old stone balustrades on a staircase in Kotor, Montenegro

Mode of transportation – by cart – for deliveries in Kotor, Montenegro

I prefer sunny weather, but there was an undeniable charm to this place, even under the cloud cover. Exploring this town was like being transported to another time. In addition to the alleys I love, there are of course squares and churches. In the second photo below, note the differences between the two towers. One theory is that they ran out of money before finishing the left one.

St. Luke’s Church (dating from 1195), in Kotor, Montenegro

St. Tryphon's Cathedral (dating from 1166) in Kotor, Montenegro

Beautiful flag of Montenegro. I hope to see it flying again some day!

We returned to the ship, conveniently docked right near the city walls, in time for “happy hour” in Horizons Lounge. Happy Hour occurs daily from 5:00-6:00, and during that time, drinks are two for the price of one, and come with free munchies or appetizers. (It’s fine to have the first drink there and take the second one into the restaurant to accompany dinner.)

Being at the bow of the ship, the Horizons Lounge offers a great view, so the place was packed. By now we all knew how beautiful that “fjord” is, and I don’t think anyone wanted to miss it as we passed through it on our departure, even if through rainy-day windows! The busyness of Horizons meant that we shared a table with another couple, Ben and Shirley from Texas, and enjoyed getting to know them.

Dinner that night was at another specialty restaurant, Polo. We sat at a table for 8, right at the bow of the ship (on a different level from Horizons), with a great view of the sunset. It was wonderful! I’m not a foodie, but even I got excited about the meal. My appetizer was a tower of beet root (the same as just “beet,” I think), layered with garliced goat cheese and topped with assorted little green sprigs. For an entree I had filet mignon and truffled mashed potatoes. Yum!

Beet and garliced goat cheese tower at Polo, a specialty restaurant

aboard Oceania’s ship, Marina

All three of the other couples at our table have cruised extensively, including two to three times each on Oceania. When we told them this is our first cruise, almost in unison they said, “You’ve started at the top.”

I find the social dynamics to be interesting on the cruise. Obviously there are a number of very successful individuals who cruise, many of whose net worth we will never approach in this life. But we never saw any one-upmanship in that regard. This was vacation, and a cruise ship is a great equalizer. Conversations were about: Where are you from? Have you cruised before? Was it on Oceania, or if not, how would you compare it? Where else have you cruised and what was your favorite place? Only then might company names be mentioned, but no one ever said, “I’m an executive vice president with Ford Motor Company,” for example, or, “I’m staying in one of the Owner’s Suites.” The cruise brought together over 1200 interesting, accomplished people who like to travel and who are well-traveled. If you are that type of person, or you enjoy being with that type of person, you may enjoy that aspect of cruising, which is not so readily available with independent travel.

For more information on Kotor, see my pre-cruise blog.

TIP FOR PERAST: The Blue Line bus to Perast can be caught at the end of the outdoor market (just to the right of the entrance in the city walls, but outside the walls). The cost was €1 per person, each way. Oceania had the bus schedules available for us on the ship, but the locals are also happy to tell you when the next bus is due; and when the bus driver drops you off in Perast, he can tell you when to be back at the stop for the return trip.

DAY 3: Dubrovnik, Croatia (Oceania Cruise)

2011-05-29T19:25:00.000-07:00

Dubrovnik has long been one of my bucket-list destinations.

It wasn’t a disappointment!

But first, what a beautiful morning on the ship! We started with breakfast on the outside deck of the Terrace Café. That was so nice, right there in prime real estate. Looking at this picture makes me want to be back on the ship again!

The al fresco area of the Terrace Café, aboard Oceania’s ship, Marina

As we weren’t scheduled to arrive in Dubrovnik until 1:00 p.m., it was nice to have some relaxation and more time to explore the Marina.

The Internet café aboard Oceania’s ship, Marina

Concierge-level staterooms and all suites come with a laptop in the cabin, but this Internet café provided plenty of computers for everyone else.

It is important to note that the computers are for Internet usage only. We didn’t realize that ahead of time. We just knew we’d have a laptop in our room, so Al took a thumb drive so he could download files from his video camera. However…it doesn’t work for that!

The Internet manager there was fantastic, though. He repeatedly downloaded the files for us, always with a great attitude. If not for him, our video camera would have been of very limited use for our trip. Next time, maybe we’ll take an iPad along. (That should fit inside the room safe; a laptop would not.)

Internet usage comes at a price on a ship: $0.95 a minute. Another option is to use the email address they give you for the cruise. With that, all incoming emails are free, and outgoing ones are $3.95 each. There are packages available, but I feel sorry for anyone who would be on the computer (on a cruise) enough to make them cost-effective!

If you prefer to read the old fashioned way, there’s a ship library. It was built to resemble a series of cozy nooks and intimate studies, each with a different feeling from the one before it, some with faux fireplaces for added atmosphere. Brilliant concept!

Cozy nooks in the library of Oceania’s ship, Marina

Private-study feeling of the ship library aboard Marina (Oceania cruises)

One room of the library aboard Oceania’s ship, Marina

And conveniently located next to both the library and Internet café is Baristas, great for a cappuccino and biscotti.

Baristas on board Marina (Oceania Cruises)

Dubrovnik is a beautifully preserved, fully walled city on the Adriatic. Probably the most popular “must-do” tourist activity there is to walk the city walls. It’s a distance of just over a mile total (but with numerous steps up and down). This affords views of the fort, the sea and harbor, into the gardens of residents, and perhaps most famously, across ancient tiled roofs of varying heights and angles.

I don’t know if it’s a law that all the awnings and market umbrellas in town must be white. If so, it’s a good law. They provide an elegant touch, dotted against the beautiful old stones of the city.

Dubrovnik’s main street below is the Placa (formerly called the Stradun).

The many tiled roofs of Dubrovnik

Lots of little alleyways bordered by beautiful old architecture in Dubrovnik

The Old Harbor of Dubrovnik

We don’t know if it’s a typical Sunday afternoon occurrence in Dubrovnik – or if our timing was just lucky – but we were treated to performances by a series of bands in front of Church of St Blaize. When one band finished, the next came down the Placa, playing their instruments, and then had their turn to perform on the cathedral steps. It all felt very special and fun.

A band readies itself for its performance on the steps of the

Church of St. Blaize in Dubrovnik. At the left is Orlando’s Tower.

Another major tourist attraction is the Rector's Palace.

Portico roof at the Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik

Fresco and column at the Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik

Atrium inside the Rector’s Palace. Apologies for the column in the middle of the photo.

We didn’t take the time for the tour, so I photographed what I could from the front door.

I enjoy the architecture of cloisters, and Dubrovnik has two worth seeing: one at the Dominican Monastery and the other at the Franciscan Monastery.

Cloister at the Dominican Monastery in Dubrovnik

It was near the end of the day and I’d decided not to pay the admission fee to the the Franciscan Monastery, but rather, just to see what I could from the entrance. However, the attendant said, “It’s Mother’s Day” (how nice that he would even be aware of the American holiday) then added with a smile, “Shhh! Just come in.”

Cloister at the Franciscan Monastery in Dubrovnik

We wondered if we’d feel we had enough time to do justice to the various ports of call, but we can honestly say that we felt we did. When you don’t have to drive into town, find your hotel, check in, unpack and repack – or even eat (because you do plenty of that on the ship) – it’s surprising how much ground you can cover!

We returned to the ship to find there was a Captain’s reception in Horizons Lounge (we should have spent more time looking at the daily schedule Oceania provided!). We didn’t feel properly attired but were graciously assured that it was fine, and we should definitely come on in. And it was fine, and very enjoyable. We changed before dinner – Oceania’s dress code for dinner is resort casual – and ran into Jeff and Patti, whom we’d met at dinner the night before. We made it an impromptu foursome for dinner in the Grand Dining Room.

Jeff and Patti in the Grand Dining Room on Marina (Oceania Cruises)

DUBROVNIK TIP: To purchase tickets to walk the wall, make a hard right after entering the Pile Gate. Croatia is not on the euro, and neither euros nor credit cards are accepted as payment for walking the wall. If you need to exchange money for this, from the Pile Gate, walk past Great Onofrio’s Fountain, and you’ll find an exchange shop a short distance down the Stradun/Placa on the right.

The admission for walking the wall was 70 kn per person (€10 on our date of travel) and covers one time around, in one direction, with no on and off. If you wanted to get off, you’d need to buy another ticket to get back on. It can get quite hot on the wall, so take plenty of water with you.

There are several checking points, and one must show a ticket to pass, so if you and your travel companion(s) are taking the wall at different speeds, you’ll want to make sure that each has his or her own ticket. Also note that following the wall can get tricky near the Maritime Museum. Just remember not to go down the steps unless you’re trying to leave the wall; if you instead take a bend to the right you’ll see where it continues.

TIP re DUBROVNIK BATHROOMS: While standing in a slow line for a two-stalled ladies’ room, it came to one woman’s turn. She opened the door, took one look, and said, “I’m not going in there!” It wasn’t the first time I’d seen a toilet like this, with corrugated footing (stainless steel in this case, ceramic in the Italian one I saw), where you squat and aim for a hole in the flooring. The important thing is that they do flush! Because the flooring can become wet and slippery (either from the obvious, or from flushing), one woman in line said she had slipped in such a bathroom once before, and that it took many washings to feel clean again; so a word of caution.

I am happy to report that we located modern bathrooms (men’s and women’s) in the city. Go to Great Onofrio’s Fountain, face the gate in the city walls, and look left. There’s a large banner or sign that says Klarisa Restaurant. Go through the large double doors under that sign, and you’ll immediately see signs directing you to turn right for the toilets. Had we not been returning to the ship for dinner, Restaurant Klarisa might have been an interesting place to try for dinner. It has outdoor dining in the ancient courtyard of a former women's monastery.

For more photos, see my Flickr account.

DAY 2: Venice (Oceania Cruise)

2011-05-27T14:11:00.000-07:00

Ah, Venice!

After a good night’s sleep, we had a leisurely breakfast in the elegant Grand Dining Room, patterned after the classic 5-star restaurants of Europe.

Swarovski crystal chandelier in Marina’s Grand Dining Room

Grand Dining Room aboard Oceania's ship, Marina

Menus change daily, but this will give you an idea of the breakfast menu.

Page 1 of the breakfast menu in the Grand Dining Room on Marina (Oceania Cruises)

Page 2 of the breakfast menu in the Grand Dining Room on Marina (Oceania Cruises)

It felt funny (but nice) after eating a beautiful breakfast like this, to then just get up and walk out. There’s no bill to pay or even tip to leave. (There is a total tip charge, which varies by cruise line. For Oceania it’s $13.50 per person per day. For suites, which include butler service, there is an additional $5 per person per day. Based on the attentive service we enjoyed throughout the cruise, it was money well spent!)

The weather that day was another definition of perfection. Beautiful, beautiful! Oceania provided a free shuttle from the ship to the Piazzale Roma (Venice's terminal), where we were able to pick up the vaporetto. Having been to Venice 1-1/2 years ago, there was nothing we felt we had to see, and having arrived just the day before, we preferred to have a leisurely Saturday and ride the vaporetto through the canals.

A vaporetto in Venice

A vaporetto is like the city bus, except that this being Venice, the bus is a boat. (Sidebar: if you’re planning a trip to Venice and are trying to decide between a water taxi [expensive] and a vaporetto [cheap] for your airport transfers, ask yourself if you’d like to be on this with all your luggage!)

With a day-pass, we were able to hop on and off the vaporetto and stroll for a while as desired. We both verbalized the sudden realization that Venice is one of our favorite cities in the world. We thought it probably has something physiologically to do with being on the water, but there’s also its incredible architectural beauty.

The Grand Canal in Venice

Gondola in the Grand Canal, Venice

Has anyone yet published a coffee table book called The Verandas of Venice?

Window boxes and flower-filled verandas in Venice

Pigeon in an open window in Venice

One of the highlights for us was to visit the hotel where we’d stayed on our previous trip to Venice, the Al Ponte Antico. We’d written ahead to the gracious owner, Matteo, who said that of course we’d be welcome to come back for a visit. We each ordered a Spritz ("the official cocktail of Italy," a combination of Prosecco and Aperol) and sipped them on the hotel’s veranda overlooking the Grand Canal, just as we’d done in the fall of 2009.

Our Spritz toast at the Al Ponte Antico Hotel, overlooking the Grand Canal in Venice

And just as at that earlier time, we were able to see an ambulance approach from under the Rialto Bridge and speed past, dodging other vessels and leaving its wake to wash up over the sides of the canal.

An ambulance boat speeds out from under the Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal of Venice

While we were still sitting there, a wedding party passed by!

Bride and groom in a flower-bedecked gondola in Venice

When we tried to pay the bill for our Spritzes, Matteo was no longer there, but payment was refused. (Did I say gracious?) If you ever need a hotel in Venice, I can wholeheartedly recommend the Al Ponte Antico. There’s a reason why it stays at #1 or #2 on TripAdvisor’s list of 444 hotels in Venice. So our thanks to you, Matteo! We enjoyed seeing you and your beautiful hotel again.

Al Ponte Antico Hotel, on the Grand Canal in Venice

Breakfast room of the Al Ponte Antico Hotel in Venice

We also stepped inside the Hotel Danieli for a quick peek at its 14th century lobby. It is gorgeous. I’d thought earlier that we might want to have lunch at the Danieli, but when we see on the menu a lunch item for €85 and a bottle of champagne for €600, that’s our first clue to keep looking for another place to eat!

14th century lobby of the Hotel Danieli in Venice

We never dreamed the extent to which Oceania Cruises really goes all out, even “arranging” for the Pope to be in Venice for our visit.

Banner welcoming Pope Benedict XVI to Venice

Italian officers in a water taxi on the Grand Canal of Venice

The city was all abuzz. Cameras were set up; the appropriate dock had been carpeted in red; and we saw a boat delivering plants and flowers, presumably to dress up for the occasion. We passed a scarlet-bedecked platform set up near the entrance to St. Mark’s Square.

Of course, there was a downside to this. Even though the Pope wouldn’t be speaking until early evening, for security reasons St. Mark’s Square was closed for the day. This wasn’t a big issue for us, but we felt for those who’d never seen Venice before, as that’s one of the major sites of the city. (See cruise tip below). Our ship was even delayed for two hours in leaving the harbor because port traffic was halted for security reasons. (The captain was able to make up the time, so we arrived at our next destination on schedule.)

Before pulling away from Venice, there was a mandatory safety drill. Each cabin was assigned to a specific muster station on the ship – ours was in the Grand Dining Room – and roll call was taken. They discussed the lifejackets and emergency evacuation procedures.

When we left port – and at many other times – music filled the air. It was magic. (Well, maybe it was Jack the Knife…either way!) One passenger joked that what you never want to hear a ship’s band play is Nearer My God, to Thee – and they didn’t! :)

Live band poolside aboard Oceania’s ship, Marina

We had dinner in one of Marina’s five specialty restaurants, Toscana. One of the nice things about Oceania as a cruise line is that they don't charge for specialty restaurants (other than for the wine-pairing dinner at La Reserve, as alcohol is not included in the price of the cruise).

Toscana Restaurant aboard Oceania’s ship, Marina

I have to admit, it’s the first time I’ve ever been to a restaurant that had a separate, two-page menu for olive oils! There were plain olive oils of different varieties, others that were infused with rosemary and such, and still others that were mixed with vinegars.

It was beautiful eating dinner there, with the Roman shades raised, and watching the sun set over the bow of the ship. We shared a dinner table with Lee and Brenda, and with Jeff and Patti. Patti used to reside in the same small town where we lived when our daughter was little. We would bump into her and Jeff a number of times in the next 10 days, and we came to enjoy some running inside jokes.

CRUISE TIP #1: When selecting a cruise that includes a destination that’s on your bucket list, you may want to choose an itinerary that either starts or ends in that location. There are several reasons for this:

(1) Sometimes, due to weather conditions, a ship is not able to make all its stops. (This may be especially true if tenders are required for a given port.) But if a cruise starts or ends at the destination that’s most important to you, barring some disaster, you can be fairly certain that you’ll see it.

(2) It allows you the opportunity to add one or more days pre- or post-cruise in that location for more in-depth sightseeing.

(3) That pre- or post-cruise stay is added insurance if the destination is of particular interest to you. I really felt for those people who’d never been to Venice and now that they were, weren’t able to see St. Mark’s Square because of the Pope’s visit. Sometimes these things happen.

CRUISE TIP #2: Some cruise lines charge $20-35 per person for specialty restaurants, not including alcohol; others, like Oceania, do not. It’s just something to be aware of when selecting and pricing your cruise.

CRUISE TIP #3: Cruise prices can result in sticker shock because we’re often used to computing land travel costs separately: “This many days in this hotel at $___ per night, and that many days in that hotel at $___ per night, and the rental car is $___, and we’ll figure so much for food,” etc. With a cruise, the food, transportation and accommodations for the entire trip are rolled into one price, and I think that price is actually a bargain (especially because all the meals are gourmet). As for alcoholic drinks, prices seem on a par with those at restaurants (an 18% service charge is added). The area where I think one is more likely to pay more can be on airport transfers and ship excursions, but there are usually easy workarounds for these, so please don’t ever let that dissuade you from the wonderful experience of cruising.

Note: I will eventually be adding many more photos from Venice to my Flickr account.

PRE- and DAY 1 – Travel to / Arrive in Venice for Oceania Cruise (Thurs & Fri)

2011-05-26T22:19:00.000-07:00

We were up at 5:00 a.m. for the long trip, made longer because we (in an effort to save some money) took three planes to get to Venice, having two- to three-hour layovers in both Dallas and Madrid. Oddly enough, it was kind of nice to have the stop in Dallas, which allowed for a real lunch and some light-duty shopping. And in Madrid, it gave us more than enough time to go through another (required) security check and enjoy the architecture.

Interesting architecture at the Madrid-Barajas Airport

While we were in an airport shop, all of a sudden music and dancing broke out! The people of Madrid really know how to perk up the souls of weary travelers!

Flamenco dancing at the Madrid-Barajas Airport

We had a pleasantly uneventful taxi ride from the Venice airport to the dock. The driver quoted €40 inclusive of tip. Even though the meter was slightly higher than that, he only asked for the 40 -- very refreshing! (For price comparison, a water taxi would have been €100 [about $150] for the two of us from the airport to the pier, and the cruise line’s transfer would have cost $139 per person.)

So after one limo ride, 3 planes, 2 inter-airport busses, 1 taxi and a short walk, we were on Oceania’s newest ship, the beautiful Marina. Embarkation was quick and simple, and we were in our veranda cabin in no time, with a chilled bottle of champagne waiting for us to pop the cork. There is just something about coming to an end of all that travel and finally being on the ship…surrounded by water…in Venice…and sipping champagne. It’s almost a definition of perfection.

Our concierge-level veranda cabin, #10112, aboard Oceania’s ship, Marina

The granite bathroom had a separate tub and shower, both with hand-held wands (as well as a rainhead in the shower). The tub was nice and deep for soaking after a day of walking cobblestone streets!

Bathroom in veranda cabin of Oceania’s ship, Marina

Bathroom of veranda cabin of Oceania’s Marina

Sometimes people who are used to 4- and 5-star hotel properties (and the space they provide) are surprised when it isn’t the same on a cruise. It’s important to remember that this is a ship. And for a ship, this is a fairly large bathroom. (Admittedly, it looks smaller in this photo than the one above it.)

For more space, however, one can upgrade to a suite. At the pinnacle is the 2,000 square foot Owner's Suite (photographed on an earlier ship tour in San Diego).

Master bathroom in Marina's 2,000 sq ft Owner's Suite

(For more of our photos from that ship tour, click here.)

Wonderful Bvlgari toiletries in Oceania’s concierge-level cabins and suites

Figuring we’d be tired from the trip, we’d planned to call room service for dinner and eat on the veranda – there’s no charge for room service on Oceania – but once we were onboard, we felt invigorated and wanted to explore the ship. We decided to eat in the Terrace Café, which was much like an upscale cafeteria. That allowed us to pick and choose and eat odd combinations of things, the way one likes to pick and choose and eat odd combinations after flying for so many hours and across so many time zones. (And they were quite happy for us to bring along our glasses of champagne from our room. Things are wonderfully different that way on a cruise!)

The service was exceptional everywhere on the ship, and I like that the servers all wear name tags that also include their nationality. It’s a very international group!

Our cabin attendant, Alexandra, from Serbia. She was great!

We wondered what it would feel like to be on a ship and imagined more of an up-and-down sensation. What it felt like instead was more of a jiggling. If you remember those massage beds that some motels had in the 1960’s, where you put a quarter into a box on the headboard to start the motion, that’s sort of what the ship felt like, especially when lying down. But we didn’t have to put in our quarters. (We didn't hear of anyone getting seasick on the entire 10-day cruise.)

It really felt good to hit the sack for an early bedtime. Marina’s mattresses are the perfect combination of firm underneath with a cushy top, and I’m not kidding, those 1000-thread-count linens are fabulous!

I'm cheating a bit: this was taken in 2009. However, in that the ship was in port for

an overnight, it would have been possible to see Venice by night during the cruise.

Tomorrow: Venice by day!

TSA TIP #1: I wore a long skirt for the flight, which meant an automatic TSA pat down in Los Angeles. And because I was wearing a money belt under the skirt, it required a private pat down. Turned out it was no big deal. Two female TSA agents took me into a private room and had me remove the money belt. Then one of them patted my legs through the skirt. It never felt inappropriate at all, and I got the impression the agents dislike the process as much as travelers do. I told them, “My husband will be really happy I didn’t talk him into wearing a money belt!” and they laughed. Good to know TSA agents can have a sense of humor.

TSA TIP #2: Something we learned at a travel agent meeting recently was to make sure to keep your small electronic equipment (phone, etc.) and watches/jewelry inside something larger, such as your carry-on bag. That way, if you’re delayed in going through the screening yourself, it’s harder for a would-be thief to pick it up, pocket it and be on their way. The TSA does have cameras, but they’re only responsible for reimbursement if it was one of their agents who took something. Better to avoid problems by making it as hard as possible to be victimized.

CRUISE INFO: The taxi driver dropped off our luggage in one spot and pointed the direction in which we should walk for embarkation onto the ship. We heard of some who wondered if they’d ever see their things again, but this is standard procedure. It’s important to have the cruise-line-issued tags for your luggage, as you will not see your bags again until they’re placed outside your cabin on the ship.

At embarkation, they take your picture and issue you what looks like a credit card. This is used for any purchases onboard, but more importantly, to check you on and off the ship for shore excursions, so it’s important to carry it with you at all times. When you reenter the ship, they check the photo, so if you did lose your card ashore, the finder couldn’t get a free cruise at your expense.

Our Anniversary at the Mission Inn, Riverside, CA

2011-03-14T23:14:00.000-07:00

The Mission Inn

This will be a short entry because I already did a blog on the Mission Inn on February 7. I actually wrote that entry the day before, on the 100th anniversary of President Reagan’s birth, and I chose the Mission Inn because that’s where he and Mrs. Reagan spent their honeymoon.

I’ve lived in Southern California for over 30 years, and the research for that blog post convinced me that this was a place we needed to see, however belatedly! So I’ll share with you some of my favorite photos from that day.

Plaza in front of the St. Francis of Assisi Chapel at the Mission Inn

Staff member was guarding the door during a wedding inside the St. Francis of Assisi Chapel at the Mission Inn

I find this one intriguing. Why was the door cracked?

The workmanship is amazing on this façade of the St. Francis of Assisi Chapel (even if Assisi is misspelled, per my research).

The Mission Inn has an incredible conglomeration of architectural styles.

A room on the top floor at the Mission Inn

The famous clock tower at the Mission Inn

So European in feeling!

Our anniversary brunch at Duane’s

The surprise dessert they brought us

And we lived happily ever after!

NOTE: Due to some other happenings in our lives right now and over the next few months (nothing bad), we’re putting this blog on hiatus until probably mid- to late-May. I hope you’ll come back and join us then!

Exclusive Tour of Oceania's Brand-New Ship, Marina

2011-03-07T20:39:00.000-08:00

Oceania Cruises’ newest ship, Marina

Last week my husband and I had the opportunity to tour Oceania Cruises’ brand-new ship, Marina. If you’re a follower of the ScheckTrek blog, you may recognize that as the ship whose “Grecian Glory” itinerary I chronicled from November to January. So even though I was fairly familiar with what many of the public areas and staterooms look like, it was a special treat for me to be able to see it all in person. The only thing lacking was that I wanted to “feel the sea move under my feet,” to paraphrase Carole King. But I look forward to taking care of that part of it in due time!

This tour was only open to travel agents – some of whom flew in from Canada just to see this ship first-hand – but I can at least provide you with a visual tour and let you know why we thought it was special.

First of all, it’s gorgeous! We overheard agents saying they thought it’s the most beautiful ship out there, and its staterooms are especially nice. Prior to Oceania’s release of Marina, the staterooms on their existing three ships ranked 3rd, 5th, and 7th, respectively, in Conde Nast’s ranking of the top 20 ships in their size category. For Marina, Oceania has upsized and upgraded the staterooms – all of which is to say, they’re really nice!

Master Bedroom of the Owner’s Suite on Oceania's ship, Marina

There are three Owner’s Suites on the ship, each with 2,000 sq ft and a large, wrap-around veranda.

Dressing table in the Master Bedroom of the Owner’s Suite of Oceania’s ship, Marina

I should have had my husband take my photo while sitting at this table, pretending!

The Music Room in the Owner’s Suite of Oceania Cruises’ ship, Marina

This is the short side of the wrap-around deck of Marina’s Owner’s Suite, but this is the side with private Jacuzzi and outdoor television!

Our tour started in Horizons, an elegant lounge overlooking the bow of the ship and largely enclosed with windows. For this travel agents’ tour, we looked out onto the docks of San Diego; but imagine seeing the passing scenery of Adriatic coastline, for example, while sipping champagne and tasting canapés.

We then had the run of the ship, with one of each type of stateroom and suite available for our inspection. Marina has four suite levels: Owner’s (pictured above), Vista (1,200-1,500 sq ft), Oceania (1,000+ sq ft), and Penthouse (420 sq ft). All provide butler service and access to the Executive Lounge.

Following are photos of the Penthouse Suite. Though larger and with added amenities, it is similar in feeling/decor to the Veranda, Ocean-View, and Inside Staterooms.

Sitting area of the Penthouse Suite in Oceania’s newest ship, Marina

Penthouse Suite. There are two upholstered chairs and a table at the foot of the bed – just in case you feel like eating in your suite and prefer not to do it, for whatever reason, on your veranda or in bed.

The pool area of Oceania’s ship, Marina. I dream of parking myself in one of those lounge chairs while at sea.

After the tour, we had a 5-course lunch in the Grand Dining Room. Meals are one of the things Oceania does best. In Conde Nast’s ranking of the top 13 “always the best” cruise lines out there, Oceania’s food ranked 3rd, missing 2nd place by .1 point to Crystal. However, in a separate CN readers’ poll to rank the top 20 specific ships in their size category, Oceania’s ship Regatta, came in first with an overall score of 95.8. Their other ships were 3rd and 5th. The February 2011 publication was too early to include Marina, but I can tell you, we ate well! Following are some of the visuals:

This is the Grand Dining Room on Oceania’s ship, Marina

Beautiful china in Marina’s Grand Dining Room

Though I’m not a fan of caviar, personally, I appreciated Marina’s/Oceania’s generous offering.

I believe this fish appetizer came from Marina’s Red Ginger restaurant.

Surprisingly, considering the cost of gold these days, they gave us some to eat atop the dessert on Marina. And I ate it!

There are a number of very good cruise lines out there, and sometimes it depends on what a person wants. (For example, those with small children might want to consider a Disney Cruise.)

Oceania is an upscale – though, for some reason, not considered deluxe – cruise line. It is widely reputed to give good value for the money, and it excels in the following areas (where stats are given, they’re based on Conde Nast’s January and February issues, 2011):

• Ship size. I like medium-size ships, such as Oceania’s. They’re large enough to provide restaurant choices and things to do, but they can get into ports that the mega-ships can’t, and there are fewer lines (to eat, to get off the ship, etc).

• Port-rich itineraries, with enough time to feel you’ve actually been there. A personal pet peeve is to see some place like Santorini, for example, on a ship’s itinerary, but notice that there’s hardly enough time to get up to the top (where you want to be), see anything, and get back down to the ship on time. The itineraries for Oceania’s three earlier ships (Marina wasn’t out in time for these stats) were ranked 2nd, 3rd, and 6th for the top 20 ships of their size; and as a cruise line, Oceania’s itineraries ranked 3rd for top cruise lines (without regard to ship size).

• Food. Oceania Cruises was ranked 3rd for food, and readers of Conde Nast ranked Oceania’s ship, Regatta, in 1st place for food on a ship of its size. Another plus is that Oceania doesn’t charge a premium at any of their restaurants, which is increasingly rare. Four of their 10 dining rooms require reservations (but not set seating times, which provides flexibility) and 6 are open seating.

• Cabins are lovely and, depending on the ship, rank as high the top 5 for ships of its size.

• Crew and service also rank very high on Oceania.

Anyway, we had a really great time!

If you've cruised, please let us know where you went, which cruise line, how you liked it, etc.! If you haven't yet cruised, where would you most like to go?

If you’d like to see all our photos from this tour, click here.

Las Vegas

2011-02-27T23:16:00.000-08:00

I guess it’s fair to say there’s no place quite like Las Vegas. When I’m there I like to check out as many hotels as possible. Does anyone who’s reading this know whether there’s a place on earth that has as many 5-star resorts in such close proximity as Las Vegas does? If so, please share it with us!

I was in Vegas a little over a week ago for the Travel Weekly convention. There’s always so much information at these shows – whether from seminars or vendors – and then when you add to it the dizzying visuals of Vegas…!! Well, let’s just say that the latter had my camera snapping 400 times in 4 days. (That’s quite a bit considering most of the time I was in seminars and not using it!)

This blog post will take us on a brief tour of the Trump International Las Vegas, Aria, the brand new Cosmopolitan, the Wynn, and the Palazzo. As more photos get edited and put on Flickr, I’ll add links to the remaining albums.

Trump Las Vegas
I stayed in the 64-story Trump Hotel, with its 24-carat gold-tinted, floor-to-ceiling windows. A 5-star hotel, the Trump is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World. It is completely non-smoking and doesn’t have a casino, which makes for a pleasant—and certainly quieter—environment. The service was unfailingly gracious. Unlike at some of the casino hotels—even the 5-star ones—I never felt like just another body they were trying to move through.

Though the Trump has only one major restaurant, plus one by the pool, the front door is across a small side street from the Nordstrom entrance to a shopping mall, which has the usual mall-assortment of eating establishments. It’s probably a one-minute walk.

There are a lot of crystals and polished brass in the lobby, but the rooms had a quieter sophistication to them.

The hotel’s studio suites (the smallest rooms) are 635 square feet, with beautiful built-ins and a kitchenette boasting Wolf, Bosch and Sub-Zero appliances.

Its 500-thread-count Bellini sheets were the best I’ve ever slept in.

The black rectangle in the mirror is a TV. A huge shower and toilet stall were on the left.

A plus/minus of the hotel are the rooms’ double-door entries (not pictured). They look impressive. When I first approached my room number, I was really excited about the upgrade I thought I must have received. Opening the (very heavy) door, I found it led to a marble-floored vestibule, which actually served two rooms, not just mine. The first door slammed shut and a second (very heavy) door led to my room.

On the plus side, I suppose the double doors cut down on chatter-type noise from the hall. On the negative side, they were almost impossible to close quietly, so when people were coming and going, you heard twice as many loud slams as usual. Also, if you ever have nightmares about rooming next door to Jack the Ripper, you might want to choose another hotel.

Click here for more photos I took at the Trump Las Vegas.

Aria
The trade show was at Aria, a 4,000-room hotel and casino which is part of the new CityCenter. Like the Trump, it’s another 5-star hotel, but definitely more understated in its elegance. It is contemporary, very creative, and sculptural.

Aria is all about the angles.

Click here for more photos from Aria.

CityCenter: Crystals

Another part of CityCenter is Crystals, an ultra-upscale shopping mall. I don’t know what the food is like at Mastro’s Ocean Club, but I could really enjoy eating there!

Wynn
The Wynn got a lot of publicity when it was built because of its $2.7 billion price tag. Covering 215 acres, it is considered one of the finest hotels in the world, with Five-Star ratings from Mobil, Forbes and Michelin, and a Five-Diamond rating from AAA.

I think it’s one of my favorite Las Vegas hotels for its happy-feeling décor.

When I saw all the trims on the draperies, I understood why the hotel cost $2.7 billion. Have you priced that stuff(!)?

To my mother’s way of thinking, there are never enough photos of me because I’m usually behind the camera. Here’s one of me beside the camera, shooting into a mirror.

Palazzo

Located between the Wynn and the Venetian is the beautiful Palazzo. According to Wikipedia, at its completion the Palazzo “displaced the Pentagon as the largest building in the United States in terms of floor space.” In addition to its mega floor space, this AAA Five-Diamond resort boasts the largest standard suites in Las Vegas: 720 square feet.

Cosmopolitan
The newcomer to Vegas is the Cosmopolitan, which opened in December 2010. If you thought the Wynn was costly, this one, with its 3,000 rooms, was a $3.9 billion project. I thought those beads might have been plastic, but I guess not!

Kind of a glitzy place.

Part of a light fixture in the buffet restaurant

Click here to see more Cosmopolitan photos on Flickr.

Now that we have the Internet, Facebook, blogs, Twitter and Flickr, can it really be said that “what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas”?

Rome: Hotel San Anselmo

2011-02-13T16:31:00.000-08:00

The TripAdvisor review was entitled, “Five-Star Luxury for Three-Star Prices.” The cost was indeed 3-star for our dates of travel in Rome, but the luxury was 5-star plus.

The ScheckTrek Pick for Rome: the Hotel San Anselmo.

This was, hands down, the most romantic hotel we’ve ever stayed in. It was unmistakably opulent, but in a fresh way. I actually fantasized that the owner bought hotels just so she would have something to spend money on!

Every room at San Anselmo is individually decorated. For this reason, if you want to consider staying there, it might be a good idea to spend some time on their website and request the exact room you’re interested in. The one above is the Camera delle Poesie (“Room of Poems”—note the wall). It’s the one I would have wanted, all other things being equal. The important thing that wasn’t equal, of course, was the price. At the time of our visit, San Anselmo’s rooms were one of two prices, with the higher price being 50% higher than the lower. Based on a quick check, that seems not to be the case now.

We saw no reason to pay 50% more for the room above, when we could get the room below, L’Angelica, for the lower amount.

(All photos from ScheckTrek.)

And L’Angelica came with the bathroom pictured below.

The hotel’s logo is in marble on the floor. The workmanship was so good, it took some looking even to find the two seams in the outer maroon band in that logo.

Venetian mirror and crystal chandelier

You could literally float in that tub. True to European tradition, there’s a bidet next to the toilet.

Stone stairs and a stories-high crystal chandelier

An example of some of the furniture that could be seen even in upper-floor halls

The hotel manager was literally on the phone with the owner, who was asking him why that woman was talking so many pictures of the hotel. (She had seen me on the closed-circuit television.) All was well when he told her I was a guest there. I was flattered that they thought a professional photographer had come to scope them out. :)

Well, the place was very photogenic!

The bar. Drinks or sandwiches could be ordered here and taken to the lounge.

This is the breakfast room! Note the gold leaf on the vaulted ceiling.

Every cup of cappuccino was topped with a heart.

Breakfast room wall sconces

This is also in the breakfast room, on the way to the lounge. The gilded candelabra dates from the 800s and came from an old chapel of the family.

The lounge

Imagine even how much mitering had to be done on multiple layers of mouldings. They cut corners all right (in the mitering), but not on cost or quality of workmanship.

The steel-faced fireplace was like nothing we’d seen before.

Every detail was thought out.

The outside entry area

The San Anselmo is located on Aventine Hill—one of the seven hills of Rome—in an upscale, diplomatic residential area. (The residence of the Egyptian Ambassador to the Vatican is just a few doors away.) It’s only a 15-20 minute walk to the Coliseum, but it’s removed from the hustle and bustle of the city, which we and previous TripAdvisor reviewers found a plus. It’s much more pleasant to hear the sound of birds on awakening than that of honking horns.

The downside is the climb back up the hill after a day of sightseeing. It’s fine in the cooler weather of October, when we were there, as it will definitely warm you up by the time you reach the top. I wouldn’t recommend it in summer heat and humidity, but taxis are available. (I can’t yet speak to how quickly available they are in the summer.) Even factoring in the cost of a taxi in the evenings, in our experience the hotel was still very well priced for its exceptional quality and design.

Riverside, CA: Mission Inn

2011-02-07T20:10:00.000-08:00

(Photo from Mission Inn website)

I pen this blog on February 6, 2011, cognizant that it would have been the 100th birthday of one of the best loved of our recent US Presidents, Ronald Reagan. In an effort to honor his memory, we’ll feature the hotel where he and his bride Nancy spent the first night together of their very happy married life.

The Mission Inn is located in Riverside, California, about 60 miles east of Los Angeles, and is that city’s #1 landmark. In addition to the Reagans, who honeymooned there, and the Richard Nixons, who got married there, it has played host to eight additional US Presidents (partial list includes Theodore Roosevelt, John F. Kennedy, Gerald Ford, and George W. Bush) and at least one California Governor during his tenure (Arnold Schwarzenegger). A greatly edited list of social leaders and entertainment giants who’ve been there includes Susan B. Anthony, Jack Benny, Andrew Carnegie, Bette Davis (who was married there), Albert Einstein, Henry Ford, Clark Gable, Cary Grant, William Randolph Hearst, Bob Hope, Harry Houdini, Helen Keller, Joseph Pulitzer, John D. Rockefeller, Booker T. Washington, James Brolin and Barbra Streisand. It has also drawn its share of artists.

Don O'Neill's watercolor, Mission Inn Towers.

What we’re wondering is, why haven’t we been there? We may have to rectify that!

The Mission Inn was built primarily in the first 35 years of the 20th century, as an addition to a small, late 19th century structure. Generally considered the largest Mission Revival building in the United States, it is actually an eclectic collection of styles, including (for the architecturally-minded) Spanish Gothic, Spanish Colonial, Spanish Colonial Revival, Mission Revival , Moorish Revival, Renaissance Revival, and Mediterranean Revival. With all those revivals, I’m surprised not to have seen Oral Roberts' name on the past guest list!

(Photo from Mission Inn website)

When I view this photo, especially with the bougainvillea in bloom, it seems a bit much. But at a time when so many hotels—like cars—look generic, I find it almost refreshing (in a busy sort of way) that this one doesn’t. And what’s wrong with saying, “It’s a nice place to visit, but I wouldn’t want to live there”? It is, after all, a hotel. And, no doubt about it, this one is interesting!

The Mission Inn contains narrow passageways, flying buttresses, a Cloister Wing (with catacombs), castle towers, minarets, a medieval-style clock, leaded- and stained-glass windows, a five-story rotunda, Mediterranean domes, a pedestrian skybridge, and two original mosaics by Louis Comfort Tiffany (per Wikipedia).

(Photo courtesy of Photo courtesy of Gerry la Londe-Berg)
This shot looks somewhat more subdued and is very reminiscent of the Green Hotel / Castle Green in Pasadena, which was built about the same time.

Photo courtesy of Gerry la Londe-Berg

(Photo courtesy of Saroy)

Placing one’s foot onto this property must feel like stepping into a different place or time—or both.

(Photo from Mission Inn website)

Mission Inn Restaurant

(Photo from Mission Inn website)
Las Campanas, probably taken during the Festival of Lights

The rooms at the Mission Inn are individually decorated. The basic rooms are quite plain in décor. Below are some upgrades. The hotel has been in the process of remodeling, so you might want to request a remodeled room if you go.

(Photo from Expedia)

(Photo from the Mission Inn website)

One of the Presidential Suites, of which no two are alike

The above Presidential Suite has amazing architecture, but the furniture, even though the style is in keeping with the room, seems a little tired to me. The website wouldn’t allow me to copy a photo of their Superior Presidential Suite, which was updated and upscale, with fresh white slipcovers on the chairs in the living area and a beautiful trestled and vaulted wood ceiling.

The Mission Inn has a TripAdvisor rating of 3.5. One would hope for better. Some problem areas seem to be:

• Noise from events, which are big at the hotel and can be very loud and go till the wee hours. Ask for a quiet room away from wedding/party functions.

• Noise from the street. The property fills a city block, so is bordered by streets on all four sides. Some past guests complained of the loud revving of motorcycles on the busy roads. Because some or all of the windows are original, they are lovely, but provide no improved sound insulation.

• Necessity of early booking for the hotel’s restaurants, even for breakfast. It is especially crowded during the winter Festival of Lights.

Having said that, the consensus seems to be that it’s a real treat to visit the property and explore its nooks and crannies and quirky architecture. The area around the inn is also said to be interesting and full of character.

And if some relaxation is needed after a night of poor sleep, the spa looks very, very inviting!

(Photo from R.D. Olson Construction website)

The Spa

Hmm, we have an anniversary coming up. If we’re early enough to get brunch reservations, maybe, in honor of the Gipper…

3 Things to do in Paris

2011-02-01T16:22:00.000-08:00

(Photo courtesy of Dennis Knake)

I've started writing a "Travel Tuesdays" column for a Margie McKinney's Things in Threes blog. Today's post is about three things to do in Paris. Click here if you'd like to see my favorite three must-dos in the City of Light, and maybe add some of your own!

Notice of Slight Policy Change

2011-01-30T11:19:00.000-08:00

Historically, the purpose of this blog has been to choose some destination in the world and pick out my favorite accommodations there. The posts always included plenty of photos and usually some background on the location. (Most recently we added a mini-series chronicling an Oceania cruise itinerary, but still with hotel picks.)

Often there are a number of fabulous hotels or rentals, and I agonize over which is my very favorite. Sometimes I’ve included more than one but sort of felt that I was “wimping out” when I did that.

I’ve decided that isn’t wimping out. There are many factors that go into hotel selection. Some are: personal style preference, location (including views), and price for dates of travel. So how can it hurt to share with you a greater breadth of what’s available?

Going forward I'll still research and click on every upscale hotel in a location. If there is a definite ScheckTrek pick, I’ll let you know. But most likely I’ll include photos that speak to me, from a variety of hotels. A bonus for the reader is that it’s likely to give more depth and richness to our knowledge about the area’s architecture, as well as its travel options. I’ll still include background information regarding history, geography and/or things to do there.

I hope you enjoy the tours!

Vicki Scheck

Oceania Cruise: Athens

2011-01-23T21:33:00.000-08:00

(Photo courtesy of Tilemahos Efthimiadis)

This is the 10th and final post in our series which has covered the “Grecian Glory” itinerary of Oceania’s newest ship, Marina. In fact, as I write, Marina has now left the Genoa shipyard and is on her maiden voyage heading for Miami, where she will be christened.

Here’s a final look at her in this series.

(Photo from Oceania Cruises)

Marina’s final stop on her “Grecian Glory” cruise is Athens. Of that ancient city, you have no need that I write. However, a photo tour is always in order! I searched 3,000+ photos of Athens to select the 10 below.

(Photo courtesy of Tilemahos Efthimiadis)

The Evzones (Presidential Guards) guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament Building. There’s a changing of the guard every hour, and on Sundays a grand ceremony is accompanied by a military band.

(Photo courtesy of Trent Strohm)

(Photo courtesy of Ryan Healy)

(Photo courtesy Tomasz Zdandowski)

(Photo courtesy of Royal Olive)

Corinthian Columns

(Photo “Ionic Order” courtesy of Ryan Healy)

Ionic Columns

(Photo courtesy of Camelia TWU)

Ancient Agora of Athens

(Photo courtesy of Tilemahos Efthimiadis)

Agia Eirini Church

(Photo courtesy of Spiros K)

Athens Metropolitan Church

(Photo courtesy Pretty Kate Machine)

ACCOMMMODATIONS:

There are two hotels I like very much in Athens. Both are 5-star, and both have an excellent TripAdvisor guest ranking of 4.5. One is the Hotel Grand Bretagne, and it is over-the-top luxury, especially in its suites. However, its average prices start where our pick hotel’s leave off.

SCHECKTREK PICK: Classical King George Palace

A reviewer said of the Classical King George Palace, “This is a fairytale hotel, and you will feel like royalty.” Looking at the photos, that’s easy to believe. (Photos from Expedia unless otherwise noted.)

Rooms are individually decorated, so the guest room photos below are only a sampling.

Tudor Hall Restaurant

(Photo from Gogreece.about.com)

This brings us to the end of our special series, chronicling Oceania’s “Grecian Glory” cruise, which will take place this May. Since November 18 we’ve made virtual visits to Venice; Dubrovnik, Croatia; Kotor, Montenegro; Corfu, Zakynthos and Monemvasia, Greece; Ephesus (Kusadasi), Turkey; Delos and Mykonos, Greece; and finally, disembarkation in Athens. We hope you’ve enjoyed the tour as much as we’ve enjoyed presenting it.

Join us again next week as we resume our pick for other exciting destination somewhere on the planet. And meanwhile, happy cruising, Marina!

(Sorry, this photo of the Classical King George Palace prefers to be at the end of the post!)

Oceania Cruise: Delos and Mykonos, Greece

2011-01-17T00:27:00.000-08:00

Since November 18, 2010 we’ve been covering the itinerary of a specific Oceania cruise: “Grecian Glory.” This cruise – which will include the Mediterranean, Aegean and Adriatic Seas – will be on Oceania’s brand new ship, Marina. In fact, as I pen this on January 16, 2011, we are just 5 days away from Marina’s maiden voyage to the U.S., where she will be christened.

Each week, in addition to providing information about one of “Grecian Glory’s” ports of call, I include photos of various staterooms and/or public spaces. This week I’ll feature the Oceania Suite, as well as some of the activities on board.

First, the suite. At 1,000 sq. ft., the Oceania Suites are the third largest on the ship, after the Vista Suites (1,200 sq. ft) and the Owner’s Suites (2,000 sq. ft.). They’re available either forward or aft on the ship to provide unparalleled views. In addition to butler’s service and numerous amenities, the suite includes a private Jacuzzi on it’s private veranda. That would be enough to sell me on it right there!

Below is just a sampling of activities aboard ship. You’ll notice that I include drinking coffee as an activity! (Cruise-related photos and quotes from Oceaniacruises.com.)

“As you sit ensconced in a tufted leather chair in Marina’s welcoming library immersed in the latest bestseller, you are drawn by the aroma of freshly-brewed specialty coffees to Baristas, Oceania Cruises’ new coffee bar directly adjacent to the library. A stunning arc of floor-to-ceiling windows provides panoramic views high above the glittering sea as our master baristas present you with the finest espressos, frothy cappuccinos, delightful pastries and homemade biscotti. A comforting yet stylish enclave, Baristas offers the tasteful chance to relax and savor the moment.”

What a place to have your morning (or afternoon) cuppa!

“Rather than just watching others create and merely taking notes, the best way to acquire new skills is through hands-on learning. It’s especially true with regard to culinary and artistic endeavors. Working side-by-side with an expert in the field is the ultimate way to master talents such as how to make a perfect soufflé or how to sketch landscapes in charcoal. Nothing rivals the hands-on experience, so we have created two magnificent learning centers onboard Marina, Bon Appétit Culinary Center and Artist Loft Enrichment Center.”

“Sample a fine assortment of wine, scotch, champagne, cheese and chocolate or take an opportunity to improve your knowledge of wines by conversing with Oceania’s head sommelier.”

The 9th and 10th ports of call are two Greek Isles: Delos (from 8:00 a.m. till 12:00 noon) and Mykonos (from 2:00-8:00 p.m.)

Delos

Photo courtesy of Wally Gobetz

(http://www.flickr.com/photos/wallyg/143685769/in/set-72057594130488583/)

House of Cleopatra

Delos is an uninhabited island located in the center of a circular ring of islands called the Cyclades. It’s a site of considerable archeological interest, disproportionate to it’s size of only 2.4 miles. Regarded as the birthplace of Apollo, the ruins are largely of temples of pagan worship. In 1990, UNESCO included Delos on the World Heritage List, saying that it is an "exceptionally extensive and rich" archaeological site which "conveys the image of a great cosmopolitan Mediterranean port.”

Mykonos

Mykonos is known as a party island by night, but many tourists go for its white-washed buildings, crystal clear waters, and to see its working, 16th-century windmills. Following is a photo tour of this picturesque island.

Photo courtesy of BluEyedA73 (http://flic.kr/p/7fXVeG)

(Photo from Expedia)

Palladium Hotel

Is is just me, or do you also feel a fresh, clean island breeze just looking at this open-air restaurant near the sea?

Photo courtesy of Frank Camp (http://flic.kr/p/6tUWj7)

Photo courtesy of Sheyneg (http://flic.kr/p/5mez11)

Such clear water!

“The Real Mykonian,”

courtesy of Vassil Tzvetanov (http://flic.kr/p/6A2hdQ)

(Photo from Expedia)
Rocabella Mykonos Art Hotel and Spa

(Photo from http://www.hotel-rates.com/greece/mikonos/porto-mykonos-hotel.html)

Porto Mykonos Hotel

Photo courtesy of Elliot Freeman (http://flic.kr/p/4WvwAc)

ScheckTrek Pick for Mykonos: Cavo Tagoo Hotel

(Photo from Expedia)

(Photo from Fivestaralliance)

(Photo from Expedia)

A bedroom in one of the suites. Very rustic sinks!

(Photo from Epoque)
The Spa

(Photo from nbportal)
The hotel has unique touches throughout.

(Photo from Expedia)

If this is indeed the restaurant, as I saw it labeled,

this part of it seems so intimate.

(Photo from Expedia)

At 8:00 p.m. on May 15, the Marina will set off for the last port of call on the “Grecian Glory” itinerary: Athens!